New Vegetarian Dishes — A Reader’s Guide

Originality and Structure of the Recipes

Bell claims that “upwards of 200 are absolutely original,” a striking assertion for a cookbook of this era. The excerpts show recipes numbered from No. 112 to No. 118, each with a clear list of ingredients and step-by-step instructions. The structure is consistent: ingredient quantities are given in ounces, pounds, teaspoons, and pints, followed by method paragraphs. Some recipes include a “Note” for variations, such as substituting rice or semolina for vermicelli in Stuffed Onions. This systematic format makes the book practical for daily use, though the lack of cooking times or temperatures (e.g., “bake in a moderate oven about thirty minutes”) leaves room for the cook’s judgment.

Inventive Use of Leftovers and Batters

Several recipes demonstrate thrift and creativity. No. 113, Surprise Balls, uses “cooked greens of any kind” mixed with mashed potatoes and egg to envelop forcemeat balls, then fries them. No. 114, Toad-in-the-Hole, repurposes cooked lentils and mashed potatoes into sausages baked in batter. The two versions of Tomatoes in Batter (Nos. 115 and 116) show how a simple batter base can be adapted: the plain version uses only tomatoes, while the seasoned one adds a layer of forcemeat. These recipes reflect a kitchen economy that avoids waste while producing dishes that are “as nourishing, weight for weight, as ordinary dishes made with meat.”

Emphasis on Palatability and Seasoning

Bell’s preface stresses that the book aims to provide meat substitutes that are “palatable” as well as nourishing. The recipes themselves use generous seasoning: salt, pepper, mixed herbs, shalot, watercress, and tomato juice appear frequently. No. 112, Spinach with Peas and Tomatoes, calls for three teaspoons of salt and a little pepper, plus butter and flour for thickening. No. 117, Tomato and Egg on Toast, simmers tomato pulp with shalot, butter, and pepper, then thickens with flour. The instructions often specify “stir over a brisk fire” or “serve quickly,” indicating attention to texture and temperature. This focus on flavour suggests the book targets cooks who want meat-free meals that do not sacrifice taste.

Audience and Practical Guidance

The preface divides readers into two groups: the strict vegetarian who prefers plain fruit and simple cookery, and the “others” who seek relief from meat-eating for aesthetic, hygienic, or ethical reasons. For the latter, Bell hopes the recipes will provide satisfying alternatives. The recipes themselves assume a cook familiar with basic techniques like scalding tomatoes, poaching eggs, and making batter. Instructions such as “baste them occasionally” and “well press out the water” imply hands-on experience. The book does not explain fundamental skills, so it is best suited to those already comfortable in the kitchen. The inclusion of forcemeat balls and savoury mixtures suggests a repertoire that can be built upon.

Reading New Vegetarian Dishes sequentially reveals a methodical approach to meat-free cooking, from simple vegetable sides to more composed dishes like Surprise Balls. The recipes reward attention to detail—seasoning, basting, and timing are left to the cook. Bell’s preface provides context for the book’s originality and audience, but the recipes speak for themselves. For a first reading, focus on the structure of each recipe and the variations offered; they hint at a flexible system adaptable to available ingredients.

Reading this 1892 cookbook, I keep thinking about how fussy some of these recipes feel—Surprise Balls, indeed—and yet there’s a tenderness in their thrift. It makes me remember the simpler, smoke-tinged meals from Camp fires and camp cooking — A Reader’s Guide, where a single pot and an open flame felt like enough. Both feel like quiet kitchens from another life.