Fifty salads — Context and Discussion

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In Category - Recipes
Murrey, Thomas J. (Thomas Jefferson), 1844?-1900 Project Gutenberg 2008 Not confirmed
Cooking; Salads Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Words 8,672
Reading time 38 min
Text sections 2

The source record for Fifty salads — Context and Discussion measures this digital text at 8,672 words, 38 min estimated reading time, and 2 detected text sections.

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Thomas J. Murrey's 1885 cookbook presents fifty salad recipes with a focus on practical technique and seasonal ingredients, from plain dressings to elaborate combinations, reflecting Gilded Age dining.
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Produced by Stephen Blundell and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)

_Author of "Fifty Soups," "Valuable Cooking Recipes," Etc. Formerly professional Caterer of the Continental Hotel, Philadelphia, and Astor House, New York._

NEW YORK WHITE, STOKES, & ALLEN PUBLISHERS

COPYRIGHT, 1885, BY WHITE, STOKES, & ALLEN.

REMARKS ON SALADS, 7 BORAGE FOR SALADS, 8 PLAIN SALAD DRESSING, 9 MAYONNAISE, 10 ANCHOVY SALAD, 10 ASPARAGUS SALAD, 10 BEANS, LIMA, SALAD OF, 11 BEEF SALAD, 11 BEET LEAVES SALAD, 12 BLOATER, YARMOUTH, SALAD OF, 12 BREAKFAST SALAD, 12 BRUSSELS-SPROUTS SALAD, 13 CARROT SALAD, 13 CAULIFLOWER SALAD, 13 CELERIAC SALAD, 14 CELERY SALAD, 14 CHERRY SALAD, 15 CHICORY SALAD, 15 CHICKEN SALAD, 15 CODFISH (SALT) SALAD, 17 CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS, 17 CRAB SALAD, 17 CRAY-FISH SALAD, 18 CRESS SALAD, 18 CUCUMBER SALAD, 19 CURRANT SALAD, 19 DANDELION SALAD, 19 DUMAS SALAD, 20 EELS, MAYONNAISE OF, 20 EGG SALAD, 21 ENDIVE SALAD, 21 ESCAROLE SALAD, 21 FROG SALAD, 22 HERBS FOR SALADS, 22 HERRING SALAD, 23 HOP SALAD, 23 ITALIAN SALAD, 24 LAMB SALAD, 24 LETTUCE SALAD, 25 LOBSTER SALAD, 25 MELON SALAD, 26 MINT SALAD, 26 ORANGE SALADS, 26 OYSTER SALAD, 27 PIGEON SALAD, 27 PINEAPPLE SALAD, 27 POTATO SALAD, 28 PRAWN SALAD, 28 RABBIT SALAD, 29 SALMON SALADS, 29 SARDINE SALAD, 30 SCOLLOP SALAD, 30 TOMATO SALAD, 31

E. C.'S SALAD DRESSING, 31 S. F.'S SHRIMP SALAD, 32

Of the many varieties of food daily consumed, none are more important than a salad, rightly compounded. And there is nothing more exasperating than an inferior one. The salad is the Prince of the Menu, and although a dinner be perfect in every other detail except the salad, the affair will be voted a failure if that be poor. It is therefore necessary for those contemplating dinner-giving, to personally overlook the preparation of the salad if they wish favorable criticism.

To become a perfect salad-maker, do not attempt too much at first; practise on plain salads and plain dressings before you try combination salads, fancy dressings, and elaborate garnishings, and you will soon become proficient in the art. Do not prepare plain salads until the moment they are wanted at table. Should they be mixed long before they are served, you will find the lettuce flabby and the dressing watery and insipid.

The importance of using none but the purest condiments must not be overlooked, for a perfect salad cannot be made with inferior ingredients. Garnishing or decorating salads presents an opportunity for displaying artistic taste and judgment. The most deliciously blended salad will not be appreciated unless it is attractive in appearance. No exact rule can be laid down for garnishing; much depends on the judgment and good taste of the salad maker. Original ideas are commendable. Wild flowers neatly arranged with alternate tufts of green are very pretty during warm weather. During cold weather garnish with pretty designs cut from beets, turnips, radishes, celery, etc.

BORAGE FOR SALADS.--This is an excellent ingredient in nearly all vegetable salads. Cover a champagne-bottle with raw cotton or heavy, coarse flannel; fasten it with thread; set the bottle in a soup-plate, and pour warm water over it. Soak a handful of borage seeds in warm water for fifteen minutes; drain, and work them into the flannel around the bottle, as evenly as possible. Place the bottle and soup-plate in a warm, dark place until the seeds sprout; then bring it to the light. Keep water in the plate constantly. When the shoots are a few inches long, trim them off, as wanted, and add them to any salad with a plain dressing.

PLAIN SALAD DRESSING is admissible with nearly all salads. It is composed of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, and nothing else. Many who do not care particularly for oil, use equal quantities of oil and vinegar, others one-third vinegar to two-thirds oil; these proportions satisfy a large class, but four parts of oil to one of vinegar are about the right proportions, provided the vinegar is of the best.

The plain dressing is made in two ways, either mixed in a bowl and the salad added to it, or as follows: Take a tablespoon and put in it (holding it over the salad) one saltspoonful of salt, one-fourth this quantity of freshly ground pepper, and a tablespoonful of oil; mix and add to the salad. Add three more tablespoonfuls of oil; toss the salad lightly for a few seconds; lastly, add a tablespoonful of sharp vinegar; toss the salad again, and serve.

Thomas J. Murrey opens Fifty Salads with a bold claim: 'The salad is the Prince of the Menu.' His tone is direct and opinionated, dismissing inferior salads as 'exasperating' and insisting that a dinner is a failure if the salad is poor. The book is structured as a sequence of short, numbered recipes, each with a clear heading and a paragraph of instructions. Murrey’s voice is that of a professional caterer—practical, confident, and occasionally wry, as when he notes that melons 'are very deceptive' because they may look delicious but taste insipid from growing near squashes.

A Voice of Authority and Practicality

Murrey writes with the authority of a former caterer at the Continental Hotel in Philadelphia and the Astor House in New York. His instructions are precise and grounded in experience: 'Do not prepare plain salads until the moment they are wanted at table,' he warns, or the lettuce will become 'flabby' and the dressing 'watery and insipid.' He emphasizes the importance of using 'none but the purest condiments,' as a perfect salad cannot be made with inferior ingredients. This practical advice is interspersed with occasional flashes of humor, such as his comment that wild pigeons 'are at times so plentiful that they can be purchased for 75 cents per dozen.' The voice is consistent throughout—authoritative, no-nonsense, and aimed at the home cook or aspiring host.

Structure and Pacing: From Simple to Elaborate

The book’s structure mirrors its pedagogical intent. Murrey advises beginners to 'practise on plain salads and plain dressings before you try combination salads, fancy dressings, and elaborate garnishings.' The recipes progress from basic dressings (Plain Salad Dressing, Mayonnaise) to simple vegetable salads (Lettuce, Cucumber, Tomato) and then to more complex composed dishes like Chicken Salad, Lobster Salad, and Oyster Salad. The pacing is brisk: each recipe is a single paragraph, rarely exceeding 150 words. This brevity gives the book a utilitarian feel, as if Murrey expects the reader to consult it quickly while preparing a meal. The inclusion of unusual recipes—such as Dandelion Salad, Hop Salad, and Frog Salad—adds variety and reflects the late-19th-century taste for foraged and exotic ingredients.

Recurring Details: Garnishing, Seasonality, and Spirits

Several motifs recur across the recipes. Garnishing is treated as an art: Murrey suggests using 'wild flowers neatly arranged with alternate tufts of green' in warm weather, and 'pretty designs cut from beets, turnips, radishes, celery' in cold weather. Seasonality is another thread—he notes that rabbits are 'always cheap and good, from November to January,' and that melons may be disappointing if grown near squashes. A striking pattern is the frequent use of spirits in fruit salads: Orange Salad calls for maraschino, curaçoa, and brandy; Pineapple Salad uses arrack, brandy, and curaçoa. These details suggest a Gilded Age palate that favored sweet, boozy dressings for fruit, and they give the book a distinct historical flavor.

Murrey’s Fifty Salads is best read as a period document of culinary practice, not a modern cookbook. Readers interested in the history of American cuisine will find value in its precise instructions and glimpses of 1880s dining habits. The recipes are short and practical, but the book’s true interest lies in Murrey’s voice—confident, opinionated, and occasionally wry. Approach it as a primary source rather than a guide for contemporary cooking.

Leafing through Fifty Salads, with its precise Gilded Age touches, I found myself remembering the warmer, plainer voice of a later kitchen. That same patient emphasis on seasonal ingredients, but softened for a different hearth. It’s a curious kinship across decades. That feeling led me back to Selections from Aunt Sammy's Radio Recipes and USDA Favorites — Story, Setting & Ideas, a gentler echo of the same quiet practicality.

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