Made-Over Dishes — Story, Setting & Ideas
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Produced by Arjan Moraal, David Starner and the Online Distributed
Author of Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, Philadelphia Cook Book, Bread and Bread-Making, and other Valuable Works on Cookery.
Revised and Enlarged Edition
Preface Stock Cooked Fish Meat Beef--Uncooked Beef--Cooked Mutton--Uncooked Mutton--Cooked Chicken--Uncooked Chicken--Cooked Game Bread Eggs Potatoes Cold Boiled Cheese Sauces Salads Cereals Vegetables Fruits Sour Milk and Cream
Wise forethought, which means economy, stands as the first of domestic duties. Poverty in no way affects skill in the preparation of food. The object of cooking is to draw out the proper flavor of each individual ingredient used in the preparation of a dish, and render it more easy of digestion. Admirable flavorings are given by the little leftovers of vegetables that too often find their way into the garbage bucket.
Economical marketing does not mean the purchase of inferior articles at a cheap price, but of a small quantity of the best materials found in the market; these materials to be wisely and economically used. Small quantity and no waste, just enough and not a piece too much, is a good rule to remember. In roasts and steaks, however, there will be, in spite of careful buying, bits left over, that, if economically used, may be converted into palatable, sightly and wholesome dishes for the next day's lunch or supper.
Never purchase the so-called tender meat for stews, Hamburg steaks or soups; nor should you purchase a round or shoulder steak for broiling, nor an old chicken for roasting. Select a fowl for a fricassee, a chicken for roasting, and a so-called spring chicken for broiling. Each has its own individual price and place.
Save for stock, every bone, whether beef, mutton, poultry or game, as well as all the juices that are left in the meat carving dishes on the table, and the water in which meats are boiled and in which certain vegetables are boiled. Into this storehouse--for such a stock pot is--will go also the tough ends from the rib roasts, which would become tasteless and dry if roasted; the bits that are taken from the French chops; the bone that is left on the plate from the sirloin steak; and every piece of the carcass left on the general carving plate of all sorts of game and poultry. After the meat has been taken from the roast, these bones will also be used.
In all good cooking there is a constant demand for a half pint or a pint of stock. Brown sauce and tomato sauce, in fact, all meat sauces, are decidedly better made from stock than water, and as it comes to every household without the additional cost of a penny, there is no excuse whatever for being without it. Save the bones collected on Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Chicken and veal bones may be kept together; beef, mutton and ham in another lot; one makes a white stock, the other brown. If the quantity is small, put them all together. Crack the bones, put them in the bottom of a large soup kettle, cover with cold water, bring slowly to boiling point and skim. Push the kettle to the back part of the stove, where the stock may simmer for at least three hours, then add an onion into which you have stuck twelve cloves, a bay leaf, a few celery tops, or a little celery seed, and a carrot cut into slices; simmer gently for another hour and strain. Tuesdays and Saturdays are the best days for making stock, as they are the days on which you have long, continuous fires; Tuesdays for ironing purposes; Saturdays for bread baking; in this way you will economize in coal, heat and time.
In making tomato soup, to each pint of tomatoes add a pint of this stock instead of water; or the stock may be simply heated, nicely seasoned and used as clear soup. By adding a little cooked rice or macaroni, you will have a rice or a macaroni soup.
In cream soups, where stock takes the place of water, less milk gives equal, perhaps better, results. For instance, in cream of celery soup, cover the celery with cold stock instead of water, using a quart instead of a pint of water, and then use only a pint of milk, having in the end the same quantity of a much more tasty soup at a less cost. One soon learns that all made-over dishes are more savory where stock is used in place of water. If peas, beans or cabbage are being cooked, this water may be added to that in which beef or mutton has been boiled, the whole reduced carefully by rapid boiling, strained and put aside for use.
Mrs. S. T. Rorer's Made-Over Dishes opens with a preface that reads less like a cookbook introduction and more like a domestic economy manifesto. The voice is brisk, moralizing, and exact: 'Wise forethought, which means economy, stands as the first of domestic duties.' Rorer immediately establishes a hierarchy of ingredients—'Select a fowl for a fricassee, a chicken for roasting, and a so-called spring chicken for broiling'—and insists that skill, not poverty, determines good food. The prose is dense with imperatives and lists, a style that carries into the recipe sections but with notable shifts in pace.
From Manifesto to Method: The Voice of Authority
The preface and the opening 'Stock' chapter share a commanding, almost legalistic tone. Rorer uses short, declarative sentences: 'Crack the bones, put them in the bottom of a large soup kettle, cover with cold water, bring slowly to boiling point.' The repetition of 'save' and 'will go' creates a rhythmic accumulation of instructions. Yet the voice is not merely instructional; it is evaluative. She labels certain practices as 'excuse' or 'waste,' and her phrasing—'there is no excuse whatever for being without it'—carries a moral weight. This authoritative voice persists throughout, but its intensity varies. In the recipe for Hashed Brown Potatoes, the tone becomes almost conspiratorial: 'These are exceedingly difficult to make. Directions must be carefully followed.' The shift from general principle to specific warning marks a change in the reader's relationship to the text.
Pacing the Recipe: Precision and Variation
Rorer's recipes exhibit a distinctive rhythm. Some, like 'Potatoes in Milk,' are telegraphic: 'Cold boiled potatoes may be cut into slices and cooked in milk in a double boiler until the whole is thoroughly heated; season with salt and pepper and serve.' Others, like 'Hashed Brown Potatoes,' unfold in a sequence of timed actions: 'allow them to cook undisturbed for at least eight minutes; then with a limber knife fold over one half as you would an omelet; stand again over the fire for about three minutes.' The variation in detail is not random. Dishes requiring technique receive more elaborate description; simpler preparations are dispatched quickly. This pacing mirrors the book's overall structure: the preface and stock chapter are expansive, while later sections on eggs or cold boiled potatoes are terse. The effect is a text that accelerates as it moves from theory to practice.
The Grammar of Leftovers: Recurring Patterns
A striking feature of Rorer's prose is its reliance on conditional and habitual constructions. Phrases like 'Where a little cooked meat and, at the same time, mashed potatoes, are left over' or 'Cold boiled potatoes may be cut into dice' establish a grammar of possibility. The recipes are not fixed scripts but templates for reuse. This is reinforced by the frequent use of 'allow' and 'to each,' which frame ingredients in proportional terms. The word 'left' appears repeatedly—'left over,' 'left on the plate'—tying the book's language to its core premise of thrift. Even the chapter titles ('Beef—Cooked,' 'Potatoes—Cold Boiled') suggest a taxonomy of remains. Rorer's voice remains consistent, but the pacing shifts from the imperative urgency of the preface to the measured, almost mathematical tone of the recipes themselves.
Readers approaching Made-Over Dishes will find a text that rewards attention to its rhetorical structure as much as its culinary advice. The shifts between moral economy and practical instruction, between expansive explanation and terse direction, create a layered reading experience. Rorer's voice is consistent but not monotone; the pacing varies with the complexity of the dish. This edition preserves those variations, offering a window into early twentieth-century domestic science as both a literary and a practical enterprise.
There’s something kindly in how S. Rorer slows her voice between the hurried recipes and the longer prefaces, as if catching her breath with the reader. That same unhurried patience sits inside Kitchen Tested Recipes from Canned Foods — Key Ideas to Explore, where even the quickest pantry meal feels like a quiet, known hand guiding you home.
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