Miss Leslie's Complete Cookery Directions for Cookery, in Its Various Branches — Themes and Context
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The catalog record for Miss Leslie's Complete Cookery Directions for Cookery, in Its Various Branches — Themes and Context provides practical reading context through 165,475 words, 12 hr estimated reading time, and 23 detected text sections.
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Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
Corrections and alterations from the original can be found at the end of the book. The original indexes have been retained, and a new index added which combines the two and corrects the alphabetical order.
Scans of the original book can be found at https://archive.org/details/misslesliescompcol00lesl
Miss Leslie's Complete Cookery.
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY, IN ITS VARIOUS BRANCHES.
THOROUGHLY REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS.
PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIRD, (SUCCESSOR TO E. L. CAREY,) NO. 7 HART'S BUILDING, SIXTH ST. ABOVE CHESTNUT. 1853.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1837, by E. L. CAREY & A. HART, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by HENRY CAREY BAIRD, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
STEREOTYPED BY L. JOHNSON AND CO. PHILADELPHIA. PRINTED BY T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS.
In preparing a new and carefully revised edition of this, my first work on general cookery, I have introduced improvements, corrected errors, and added new receipts, that I trust will, on trial, be found satisfactory. The success of the book (proved by its immense and increasing circulation,) affords conclusive evidence that it has obtained the approbation of a large number of my countrywomen; many of whom have informed me that it has made practical housewives of young ladies who have entered into married life with no other acquirements than a few showy accomplishments. Gentlemen, also, have told me of great improvements in the family-table, after presenting their wives with this manual of domestic cookery; and that, after a morning devoted to the fatigues of business, they no longer find themselves subjected to the annoyance of an ill-dressed dinner.
No man (or woman either) ought to be incapable of distinguishing bad eatables from good ones. Yet, I have heard some few ladies boast of that incapacity, as something meritorious, and declare that they considered the quality, the preparation, and even the taste of food, as things entirely beneath the attention of a rational being; their own minds being always occupied with objects of far greater importance.
Let no man marry such a woman.[A] If indifferent to her own food, he will find her still more indifferent to his. A wife who cares not, or knows not what a table ought to be, always has bad cooks; for she cannot distinguish a bad one from a good one, dislikes change, and wonders how her husband can attach any importance to so trifling a circumstance as his dinner. Yet, though, for the sake of "preserving the peace," he may bring himself to pass over, as "trifling circumstances," the defects of his daily repasts, he will find himself not a little mortified, when, on inviting a friend to dinner, he finds his table disgraced by washy soup, poultry half raw, gravy unskimmed, and vegetables undrained; to say nothing of sour bread, ponderous puddings, curdled custards tasting of nothing, and tough pastry.
Let all housekeepers remember that there is no possibility of producing nice dishes without a liberal allowance of good ingredients. "Out of nothing, nothing can come," is a homely proverb, but a true one. And so is the ancient caution against being "penny-wise and pound-foolish." By judicious management, and by taking due care that nothing is wasted or thrown away which might be used to advantage, one family will live "excellently well," at no greater cost in the end than another family is expending on a table that never has a good thing upon it.
A sufficiency of wholesome and well-prepared food is absolutely necessary to the preservation of health and strength, both of body and mind. Ill-fed children rarely grow up with vigorous constitutions; and dyspepsia, in adults, is as frequently produced by eating food that is unpalatable or disagreeable to their taste, as by indulging too much in things they peculiarly relish. For those who possess the means of living well, it is a false (and sometimes fatal) economy to live badly; particularly when there is a lavish expenditure in fine clothes, fine furniture, and other ostentations, only excusable when _not_ purchased at the expense of health and comfort.
_Philadelphia, Jan. 16, 1851._
[A] My instructress, the late Mrs. Goodfellow, remarked, in allusion to the dullness or silliness of some of her pupils, "It requires a head even to make cakes."
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
Eliza Leslie's Complete Cookery, in its forty-ninth edition (1853), presents itself as a thoroughly revised manual for the American kitchen. The preface directly addresses the book's practical purpose: to make 'practical housewives of young ladies' and to improve the family table. Leslie's tone is brisk and instructional, with recipes that specify exact measurements—'a quarter of a pound of white sugar,' 'a small tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon'—and clear sequences of steps. The catalog subject 'Cooking, American' is borne out by ingredients like rice, raisins, and citron, and by the absence of European culinary terms. Yet the excerpts also reveal a work deeply concerned with domestic economy and the social role of the cook, as Leslie asserts that 'no man (or woman either) ought to be incapable of distinguishing bad eatables from good ones.'
Precision in the Recipe
The excerpts show Leslie's commitment to exact quantities and procedures. In the rice plum pudding, she directs the cook to 'dredge them well with flour, to prevent their sinking'—a specific technique for handling dried fruit. The boiled rice pudding requires 'a quarter of a pound of ground rice' simmered 'over hot coals; stirring it all the time to prevent its being lumpy.' These details are not generic; they reflect a hands-on understanding of common kitchen failures. Leslie also distinguishes between similar dishes: a 'plain rice pudding' uses eggs, while a 'farmer's rice pudding' is 'made without eggs,' relying instead on 'rich milk, or of cream and milk mixed.' Such variations suggest a readership that might adjust recipes based on available ingredients or dietary preferences. The instructions to 'send it to table cool' or 'eat it cold' appear repeatedly, indicating that some puddings were served at room temperature, a practice that differs from modern expectations.
The Voice of Authority
Leslie's preface establishes her as an expert who has 'introduced improvements, corrected errors, and added new receipts.' She reports that 'gentlemen, also, have told me of great improvements in the family-table, after presenting their wives with this manual.' This framing positions the book as a tool for domestic reform, with Leslie as the arbiter of good taste. The recipes themselves reinforce this authority through imperative verbs: 'Pick, wash, and boil,' 'Beat six eggs very light,' 'Strain it through a sieve.' There is no room for improvisation; the cook is to follow exactly. Yet Leslie also includes evaluative language: the rice plum pudding 'will be perfectly soft' if done correctly, and the boiled rice pudding should be 'thick and smooth.' These assurances guide the inexperienced cook. The repeated use of 'you may'—as in 'you may make this pudding of ground rice'—offers limited flexibility while maintaining control over the outcome.
Ingredients and Domestic Economy
The recipes reveal a pantry stocked with staples: rice, milk, butter, eggs, sugar, spices (nutmeg, cinnamon, mace), and dried fruit (raisins, currants, citron). Alcohol appears frequently—'a wine glass of rose water; and a wine glass of brandy or white wine'—as a flavoring and preservative. Leslie's instructions to 'send it to table cool' for many puddings suggest that dishes were prepared in advance, a practical consideration for household management. The 'farmer's rice pudding,' baked for 'two hours or more,' uses brown sugar and no eggs, implying a more economical version. The preface's claim that the book has 'made practical housewives of young ladies' ties these recipes directly to the social expectation that women manage the household efficiently. The catalog subject 'Cooking, American' is thus not merely about geography but about a specific domestic ideology: the cookbook as a tool for training women in thrift, precision, and hospitality.
Readers approaching this edition should note that it is a revision of an earlier work, with new receipts added and errors corrected. The index has been reorganized, combining two original indexes. The recipes assume a wood-fired stove or hearth, with instructions to 'set it over hot coals' and 'bake it an hour.' Leslie's voice is direct and confident, but the book is best used as a historical document of mid-19th-century American cookery rather than a modern kitchen manual. Pay attention to the specific measurements and techniques, which reveal much about the material culture of the period.
Reading Eliza Leslie’s precise, no-nonsense instructions for mid-century American kitchens, I felt the calm of order itself—her measured syllables like a slow ticking clock. It brought to mind a later, quieter volume, one where paper envelopes replace copper pots. Same underlying domestic kindness, I suppose, only wrapped in folds of parchment. Paper-bag Cookery — Key Ideas to Explore feels like a whispered footnote to her larger, bustling story.
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