The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined — Story, Setting & Ideas

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Mollard, John Project Gutenberg 2012 Not confirmed
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Words 53,419
Reading time 233 min
Text sections 12

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John Mollard's 1802 cookbook emphasizes practical, economical recipes for noblemen, gentlemen, and tradesmen, with precise instructions for dishes like curried atlets and fricassees, reflecting a tension between refinement and simplicity.
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THE ART OF COOKERY _MADE EASY AND REFINED_.

[Transcriber's Notes: Text that was superscripted in the original is framed as w^{th.}. Spelling in this text is fluid and archaic. Changes made are noted in the list at the end of this text.]

THE ART OF COOKERY _MADE EASY AND REFINED_;

AMPLE DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING EVERY ARTICLE REQUISITE FOR FURNISHING THE TABLES

NOBLEMAN, GENTLEMAN, AND TRADESMAN.

Lately one of the Proprietors of Freemasons' Tavern, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields; now removed to Dover Street, Piccadilly, formerly THOMAS'S.

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, AND SOLD BY J. NUNN, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS IN TOWN AND COUNTRY.

1802. _T. Bensley, Bolt Court, Fleet Street._

THE mode of cookery which the author of the following sheets has pursued for a series of years having obtained the most distinguished approbation of the public, has induced him to commit his practice to paper; in doing which, a deviation has been made from the usual introductory methods of other treatises of the kind, in omitting to give particular directions for the choice of fish, meats, poultry, and vegetables, and at what times they respectively might be in season, &c. &c. the author conceiving the simpler method to be the most acceptable: and, therefore, as actual knowledge must ever supersede written forms, he would advise a frequent attendance at the different markets, fully assured that experience will convey greater instruction in marketing than all the theories which could be advanced. There are, nevertheless, some useful observations interspersed in the course of the work for that purpose; the author having confined himself chiefly to the practical part of cookery; he has also given some directions in a branch of the confectionary business: in both of which it has been his constant endeavour that they might be rendered as simple and easy as possible, and that economy might pervade the whole.

The receipts are written for the least possible quantities in the different made-dishes and sauces, it being a frequent error in most of the books that they are too expensive and too long; by which means the art has been rendered intricate in the extreme, both in theory and practice.

Independent, also, of a close adherence to any given rules, there are other qualities essential to the completion of a thorough cook; such as, an acute taste, a fertile invention, and a rigid attention to cleanliness.

The preceding hints and subsequent directions, it is hoped, will prove fully adequate to perfection in cookery; the work being entirely divested of the many useless receipts from other professions, (which have been uniformly introduced in books of the like nature,) and nothing inserted but what has an immediate reference to the art itself.

There is prefixed a Bill of Fare for each month in the year, as a specimen of the seasons, which may be altered as judgment directs. There is annexed, also, at the end of the volume, an Index, by which, from the first letter or word of the different articles, will be found their respective receipts.

Veal stock, for soups ib.

Consumé, or the essence of meat 2

Cullis, or a thick gravy ib.

Liquid of colour for sauces, &c. 3

To make a passing of flour and butter for cullis or benshamelle ib.

Vermicelli soup (white) 6

Cleared brown stock for gravy soups ib.

Santé, or spring soup 9

Peas soup another way 12

Mock turtle of calf's head ib.

Glaize for hams, larding, roasted poultry, &c. 20

Fish plain boiled, how to be prepared 21

Fish generally fried 22 ---- to prepare for frying, &c. 23

Broiled fish, how prepared ib. ------ salmon ditto 24 ------ mackarel, common way 25

Water souchée of perch, flounders, soles, eels, &c. 26

Roasted pike or sturgeon ib.

Bacquillio with herbs 27

Entrée of eels 28 ------ of soles ib. ------ of whitings, &c. 29 ------ of salmon ib. ------ of smelts, &c. 30 ------ of mackarel 31

Mackarel the german way ib.

Olios, or a spanish dish 32

The olio, how to be made 34

Hodge podge, or english olio 36

Light forcemeat for pies or fowls, &c. 38

Forcemeat balls for ragouts, &c. ib.

Omlets of eggs for garnishing or cutting in slips ib.

Fillet of beef larded ib.

Rump of beef a-la-daube, or braised ib.

To make Spanish onion sauce 44

Brisket of beef with Spanish onions ib. ------- with ashée or haricot 46

Rump of beef a-la mode ib.

Mutton rumps marinated ib.

Haricot mutton cutlets ib.

Fillet of mutton with cucumbers 50

Mutton cutlets with potatoes 51 ------ a la Maintenon 52

Cutlets a la Irish stew 53

Pork cutlets with red or white cabbage ib.

Pork cutlets with robert sauce ib.

To make robert sauce 55

Pork cutlets another way ib.

Fillet of pork roasted 56

Pigs feet and ears ib.

To prepare pigs feet and ears 57

Compotte of pigeons ib.

Pigeons a la craupidine 58

John Mollard's The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined (1802) opens with a preface that deliberately sets itself apart from contemporary cookbooks: Mollard omits the usual guidance on selecting seasonal ingredients, arguing that market experience surpasses any written theory. Instead, he focuses on 'the practical part of cookery,' aiming for simplicity and economy. The recipes, written for the 'least possible quantities,' reveal a tension between the book's title promise of refinement and its insistence on thrift. Mollard, a former proprietor of Freemasons' Tavern, addresses his work to 'the Nobleman, Gentleman, and Tradesman,' suggesting a broad audience, yet his instructions often assume access to specialized ingredients like cullis, benshamelle, and truffle sauce.

Economy in the Kitchen

Mollard repeatedly stresses economy, a theme woven into his recipe structures. In the preface, he criticizes other cookbooks for being 'too expensive and too long,' making the art 'intricate in the extreme.' His solution is to provide minimal quantities for made-dishes and sauces. For instance, the recipe for 'Lambs Tails and Ears' uses only four tails and five ears, braised in a pint of veal stock, with a garnish of pickle barberries—a frugal use of offal. Similarly, 'Curried Atlets' combines slices of sweetbreads with veal or mutton, using a single tablespoon of curry powder and the juice of half a lemon. These precise, small-scale instructions contrast with the lavish tables implied by the book's title, revealing a practical cookbook aimed at minimizing waste and cost.

The Tension Between Refinement and Simplicity

Despite its claim to 'refined' cookery, Mollard's methods often prioritize straightforward techniques over elaborate presentation. The 'Omlet of Eggs' recipe, for example, includes a note that the mixture 'may be put over a fire and stirred till it begins to thicken; then put it on a toast, colour it with a hot salamander'—a simple alternative to frying. Yet the same recipe also suggests additions like 'boiled tops of asparagus or celery, some fowl, or oysters,' indicating a range from plain to ornate. The 'Fricassee of Tripe' offers two versions: one with a leason of eggs and cream, another with benshamelle and parsley. This dual-option structure appears repeatedly, allowing the cook to choose between a more refined sauce and a simpler one, embodying the book's core tension between ease and elegance.

Precision in Technique and Timing

Mollard's instructions are notably precise about cooking times and temperatures, reflecting a systematic approach. Eggs are boiled 'gently five minutes' for 'Eggs a la Trip,' and fried eggs are turned after 'not more than two minutes.' The 'Omlet of Eggs' requires the pan to be 'prepared over a fire with a bit of butter burnt in it for some time' to prevent sticking, then wiped clean and dried before adding fresh butter. Such detail suggests an expectation that the cook will follow exact steps, yet Mollard also allows for improvisation: in the omlet recipe, he notes that 'there may be added also' various ingredients like cream or ketchup. This blend of strict timing and optional additions mirrors the book's overall philosophy—providing a foundation of reliable methods while leaving room for the cook's 'fertile invention,' as mentioned in the preface.

Mollard's work rewards readers who attend to its small-scale, economical recipes and the occasional alternative methods. The book's structure—with its precise quantities and dual-option dishes—offers a window into early 19th-century English cooking that balances refinement with practicality. Readers interested in historical culinary techniques will find value in comparing Mollard's instructions with those of his contemporaries, noting where he simplifies or diverges from common practice.

Mollard’s careful instructions—those curried atlets measured to the dram—felt like someone tidying a kitchen before dawn. That orderly patience came back to me later, leafing through The New Dr. Price Cookbook — Reading Notes. Different century, yes, but the same quiet faith that a recipe, followed gently, might hold a household together. I simply sat with that thought awhile.

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