The Art of Cookery Made Easy and Refined — Story, Setting & Ideas

Economy in the Kitchen

Mollard repeatedly stresses economy, a theme woven into his recipe structures. In the preface, he criticizes other cookbooks for being 'too expensive and too long,' making the art 'intricate in the extreme.' His solution is to provide minimal quantities for made-dishes and sauces. For instance, the recipe for 'Lambs Tails and Ears' uses only four tails and five ears, braised in a pint of veal stock, with a garnish of pickle barberries—a frugal use of offal. Similarly, 'Curried Atlets' combines slices of sweetbreads with veal or mutton, using a single tablespoon of curry powder and the juice of half a lemon. These precise, small-scale instructions contrast with the lavish tables implied by the book's title, revealing a practical cookbook aimed at minimizing waste and cost.

The Tension Between Refinement and Simplicity

Despite its claim to 'refined' cookery, Mollard's methods often prioritize straightforward techniques over elaborate presentation. The 'Omlet of Eggs' recipe, for example, includes a note that the mixture 'may be put over a fire and stirred till it begins to thicken; then put it on a toast, colour it with a hot salamander'—a simple alternative to frying. Yet the same recipe also suggests additions like 'boiled tops of asparagus or celery, some fowl, or oysters,' indicating a range from plain to ornate. The 'Fricassee of Tripe' offers two versions: one with a leason of eggs and cream, another with benshamelle and parsley. This dual-option structure appears repeatedly, allowing the cook to choose between a more refined sauce and a simpler one, embodying the book's core tension between ease and elegance.

Precision in Technique and Timing

Mollard's instructions are notably precise about cooking times and temperatures, reflecting a systematic approach. Eggs are boiled 'gently five minutes' for 'Eggs a la Trip,' and fried eggs are turned after 'not more than two minutes.' The 'Omlet of Eggs' requires the pan to be 'prepared over a fire with a bit of butter burnt in it for some time' to prevent sticking, then wiped clean and dried before adding fresh butter. Such detail suggests an expectation that the cook will follow exact steps, yet Mollard also allows for improvisation: in the omlet recipe, he notes that 'there may be added also' various ingredients like cream or ketchup. This blend of strict timing and optional additions mirrors the book's overall philosophy—providing a foundation of reliable methods while leaving room for the cook's 'fertile invention,' as mentioned in the preface.

Mollard's work rewards readers who attend to its small-scale, economical recipes and the occasional alternative methods. The book's structure—with its precise quantities and dual-option dishes—offers a window into early 19th-century English cooking that balances refinement with practicality. Readers interested in historical culinary techniques will find value in comparing Mollard's instructions with those of his contemporaries, noting where he simplifies or diverges from common practice.

Mollard’s careful instructions—those curried atlets measured to the dram—felt like someone tidying a kitchen before dawn. That orderly patience came back to me later, leafing through The New Dr. Price Cookbook — Reading Notes. Different century, yes, but the same quiet faith that a recipe, followed gently, might hold a household together. I simply sat with that thought awhile.