Paper-bag Cookery — Key Ideas to Explore
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SHOWING THE ENORMOUS ADVANTAGES OF COOKING IN PAPER-BAGS OVER THE PRESENT METHOD.
When Primitive Man first ventured on the daring experiment of applying heat to his newly-slain prey, he would most naturally adopt the obvious plan of suspending it on three sticks over a fire. The result, though no doubt to a certain extent tasty, would be smoked, charred on one side, raw on the other, and this, coupled with the frequency of burned fingers gained while rescuing the meat from the fire into which it fell when the sticks burned through, caused Primitive Man--or, more probably, Primitive Woman--to evolve the method of cooking known to us to-day as Paper-bag Cookery.
Paper not having been discovered, the prehistoric cook could not use the bags now placed at our disposal, but a very fair substitute was always ready to hand in the shape of green leaves, in which the meat was carefully wrapped. A hole was dug in the ground, and partly filled with large stones, on the top of which a fire was kindled. When it had burned out, the stones would be almost red-hot, and the meat, wrapped in the green leaves, was laid in, some of the hot stones being raked over the parcel, and then the hole was filled in with earth, so that neither smoke nor steam could escape. In fifteen minutes or so, or as near that time as Primitive Man could restrain his hunger, the meat would be done to a turn, and the hungry family would break open their primitive cooking oven, and devour the delicious morsels.
From Darwin's _Voyage of the Beagle_ we learn that the Tahitians cooked their food at that date (1835) in precisely the same way, and those of us who have revelled in childhood in _Bill Biddon_, _The Trapper_, and other Indian stories, must remember the delightful feasts described in those books, where the hunters and their friends gathered round the camp fire at night, and ate buffalo meat and wild prairie birds in the same fashion. How much more delicious to the childish mind than the commonplace roast mutton of nursery dinners. In spite of the condescending explanations given by our elders that it was only the hunger of the hunters that made such cookery palatable, the child still believes in the delights of such a meal--and the child is right!
There is no method of cooking by which the flavour is so well brought out, and the juices so well preserved, as by cooking in this way; that is, by hot air surrounding the food, which is thus cooked in its own juices, and by the steam so generated.
Paper-Bag Cookery is not a mere craze of the moment; for once its advantages have been discovered, it will become firmly rooted as one of the best and most economical means of preparing food ever invented. Why it should have fallen into abeyance among civilised nations (except in the cooking of one or two special dishes) for so many centuries is impossible to surmise.
NO LOSS OF WEIGHT OR FLAVOUR.
One very great advantage of paper-bag cookery which will appeal strongly to the economist is the fact that meat thus treated loses little or nothing of its weight. To the great grief of the thrifty housewife, there is no way of preventing the lordly and expensive sirloin of beef or the dainty leg of lamb losing very considerably in its passage through the cooking process, and when one has paid a good price per pound for the meat, one certainly grudges losing even a few ounces of it.
In boiling meat less is lost, but even that little is mourned by the thrifty soul, and stews are recommended, because what is lost in the cooking goes to enrich the gravy and vegetables in the stewpan.
But stews, though nourishing and economical, are not savoury, and the thrifty housewife will rejoice to know that by placing her joint in a paper bag, her family may enjoy the savour and tastiness of roast meat, without the waste in the cooking. As the joint goes into the oven, so it comes out, the same weight, or, if in some instances there be some difference, it is so slight as to be infinitesimal.
Economy, however, is not everything, and paper-bag cookery appeals also to the epicure, who does not consider cost in ordering a meal to his taste.
Countess Vera Serkoff’s 1911 Paper-bag Cookery presents a method that seals food in paper bags to cook in hot air and its own steam, claiming superior flavour and higher nutritive value. The introduction lists advantages in numbered points: food loses practically nothing in weight, cooking time is shorter, and no pots or pans need cleaning—the bags are simply burned. The author addresses both mistress and maid, noting the method’s cleanliness and its appeal when doing without a servant.
The nearly 200 recipes cover meats, fish, vegetables, and desserts. Tomato dishes appear frequently, with variations for stew, pie, and stuffed tomatoes. Vegetable marrow receives multiple treatments, including a savoury version with tomatoes and ham. Each recipe specifies bag greasing and cooking times, reflecting a systematic approach to this then-novel technique.
The Method’s Promised Advantages
The introduction enumerates nine advantages, each given a number and a bold claim. Chief among them is that food cooked in a paper bag is “superior in flavour and of higher nutritive value than that cooked in any other way.” Economy is stressed: an immense saving in fuel, no loss in weight, and a weekly bag cost of at most sixpence. The method also promises convenience—the entire meal can be prepared and placed in bags overnight, and joints require no basting. Cleanliness is a recurring theme: no blackened saucepans, no dishcloths, no strong soda water to roughen hands. The bags themselves are disposable, eliminating the need for constant renewal of pots and fireproof ware.
Tomatoes and Vegetable Marrows as Test Cases
Tomatoes appear in multiple recipes, each with a distinct technique. For Tomato Stew, the skins are removed by plunging into boiling then cold water, a method also used for the pie and stuffed tomatoes. The stew includes a bouquet of herbs—thyme, parsley, bay leaf—and grated lemon rind, cooked twenty minutes in a buttered bag. Stuffed tomatoes are presented as “a very nice supper or breakfast dish,” filled with minced meat, kidney, or sausage, then brushed with oiled butter and cooked in a greased “Papakuk” bag.
Vegetable marrow receives three treatments. The author notes that plainly boiled marrow is “insipid,” but paper-bag cooking transforms it. One recipe stuffs the marrow with minced onion, cooked meat, breadcrumbs, suet, and egg, tying the halves together with string. Another slices the marrow into rings, dips them in thick batter, and cooks them thirty minutes. A savoury version combines marrow with tomatoes, onions, lemon juice, ham, and breadcrumbs bound with egg yolk.
The Role of Branded Products and Equipment
The front matter includes an advertisement for McDougall’s Self Raising Flour, touting its 40-year reputation and suitability for pastry and puddings. The recipes themselves call for “Papakuk” bags, a branded paper bag presumably sold for this purpose. The author instructs readers to grease these bags thickly with butter, suggesting that the bag’s quality is integral to success. The introduction’s claim that an ample supply of bags costs at most sixpence per week positions the method as economical, yet the reliance on a specific product hints at a commercial underpinning. The cookbook thus balances a promise of thrift with the promotion of specialized materials.
Readers should note that the excerpts provide only a portion of the recipes and the full introduction. The method’s claims about nutrition and flavour are stated but not independently verified here. The recipes are detailed and assume a gas oven with controlled heat to prevent scorching the bags. Those interested in early 20th-century domestic innovation will find this a focused example of how convenience was marketed alongside traditional cooking values.
There’s something tender about a 1911 book that trusts a paper bag to hold a whole dinner, sealing in steam and silence. It makes me think of that other old volume, meant for men learning their way around a kitchen, where the clumsiness feels human. I kept both on my shelf, side by side, two quiet voices from another century. The Stag Cook Book: Written for Men by Men — Key Ideas to Explore sits there too, like a familiar postcard, not asking anything of me.
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