Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book — Key Ideas to Explore

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Leslie, Eliza, 1787-1858 Project Gutenberg 2012 Not confirmed
Cooking, American Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Edition facts

Words 169,658
Reading time 738 min
Text sections 29

The catalog record for Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book — Key Ideas to Explore provides practical reading context through 169,658 words, 12 hr 18 min estimated reading time, and 29 detected text sections.

The text analysis averages about 16.6 words per sentence, while the detected sections provide another way to judge how the source is divided.

Project Gutenberg metadata also associates the work with “Cooking, American,” connecting these edition facts with the source record’s subject description.

Eliza Leslie's 1857 cookbook offers over 600 pages of recipes emphasizing thorough preparation, with detailed instructions for cabbage dishes that reveal a methodical approach to neutralizing strong flavors and ensuring digestibility.
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Tripe was long considered very indigestible. This, it is now found, was a mistake; physicians having discovered that it is quite the contrary, the gastric juice that it contained, as the stomach of the animal, rendering it singularly fitted for digestion, provided that it is thoroughly cooked; so that on trial, a fork can easily penetrate every part of it.

TONGUES.--Corned or salted tongues are very little in use now. They spoil so soon, that it is scarcely possible to obtain one that has not been salted too late; and when quite fresh, they have a faint, sickening, doubtful taste. It is best always to buy them dried and smoked. Choose the largest and plumpest, and with as smooth an outside or skin as you can. Put a tongue into soak the evening before it is to be cooked; changing the water at bed-time. In the morning wash it in fresh water. Trim off the root, which is an unsightly object, and never carved at table. But it may be cut into pieces, and added to pea-soup, or bean-soup, or pepper-pot. Put on the tongue in a large pot of cold water, and boil it steadily for five or six hours, till it is so tender that a straw, or a twig from a corn-broom, will easily penetrate it. When you find that it is thoroughly done (and not till then) take it up. A smoked tongue requires more boiling than a ham, and therefore is seldom sufficiently cooked. When quite done, peel it carefully, and keep it warm till dinner. If well-boiled, it will seem almost to melt in your mouth. When you dish it do not split it. The flavor is much injured by carving it lengthways, or in long pieces. It should be cut in round slices, not too thin.

For a large party we have seen two cold tongues on one dish. One of them whole--the root concealed entirely with double parsley, cut paper, or a bunch of flowers cut out of vegetables, very ingeniously, with a sharp penknife--the vegetables raw, of course not to be eaten. Red roses made of beets, white roses or camellias of turnips, marigolds of carrots, &c. The stems are short wooden skewers, stuck into the flowers, and concealed by double parsley. These vegetable bouquets can be made to look very well, as ornaments to cold tongue, or to the end of the shank of a ham, or to stick into the centre of a cold round of a-la-mode beef.

Where there are two cold tongues on one dish, it is usual to split one to be helped lengthways, and garnish it with the other, cut into circular pieces, and laid handsomely round.

Cold tongue sliced is a great improvement to a chicken pie, or to any bird pie.

BAKED TONGUE.--Having soaked a fine large smoked tongue all night, in the morning trim it nicely, and if it still seems hard, soak it again in fresh cold water till it is time to cook it. Then put it into a deep dish, (having trimmed off the root,) and make a coarse paste of flour and water. Cut up the roots into little bits, and lay them round and about the tongue, to enrich the gravy. Lay all along the surface some bits of butter rolled in flour, and season with a little pepper--no salt. Pour in a very little water, and cover the dish with the coarse paste. Bake it till the tongue is very tender. This you may ascertain by raising up with a knife one corner of the paste and trying the tongue. When done, peel it, dish it, strain the gravy over the tongue, and send it to table. Garnish with baked tomatos, or mushrooms, or large roasted chestnuts peeled.

For a large company have two baked tongues, one at each end of the table. Eat them warm.

LARDED TONGUE.--Take a large cold tongue, that has been well boiled. Trim off the roots. Have ready some slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, cut into long thin pieces, about as thick as straws. With a larding needle, draw them through the outside of the tongue, and leave them there. Arrange the borders in rows, or handsome regular forms, leaving about an inch standing up on the surface.

Cold meat or poultry is far better for larding than that which is yet to cook.

Eliza Leslie's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book (1857) presents itself as a comprehensive guide to American domestic cookery, but its treatment of a single vegetable—cabbage—reveals a methodical, almost scientific approach to neutralizing strong flavors and ensuring digestibility. The book's catalog subject "Cooking, American" is borne out by its emphasis on practical, tested recipes, yet the excerpts show a level of detail that goes beyond simple instruction: Leslie specifies multiple boilings, cold-water rinses, and even hydrant use to eliminate what she calls "the cabbage smell." This editorial note examines how the book's structure and voice reflect a philosophy of careful preparation, using cabbage as a case study.

Methodical Neutralization

Leslie's cabbage recipes share a common pattern: parboil, drain, cool under running water, then boil again in fresh water. For boiled cabbage, she directs the cook to "let the hydrant run on it, till the cabbage has become perfectly cold all through," and if no hydrant is available, to "set it under a pump, or keep pouring cold water on it from a pitcher." This two-stage boiling, with an intermediate cold bath, is presented as the key to making cabbage "perfectly wholesome" and rendering "the usually unpleasant cabbage smell... imperceptible." The repetition of this technique across multiple recipes—boiled cabbage, fried cabbage, forced cabbage—suggests a core principle: strong flavors are not masked but removed through physical processes. Leslie's voice is authoritative and precise, specifying exact durations ("an hour and a half," "two hours, or two and a half") and even the point at which "the thickest part of the stalk must be perfectly tender."

Variations on a Theme

Beyond the basic boiled cabbage, Leslie offers several variations that demonstrate the range of her approach. Cale Cannon combines chopped cabbage with mashed potatoes, seasoned with black pepper and butter—a "plain family dish" that she recommends "when all the dinner corresponds." Fried Cabbage repeats the double-boiling process before chopping and frying in butter, with a note that a "less delicate way is to fry it in boiling lard" and that it "should be eaten only by people in good health." The most elaborate is Forced Cabbage (Choux farcie), intended "for dinner company," where the cabbage is hollowed out, stuffed with a forcemeat of minced veal or pork, ham, breadcrumbs, herbs, and lemon peel, then tied into a ball and stewed. These recipes show Leslie adapting a core technique to different contexts—from everyday family meals to company dishes—while maintaining her emphasis on thorough preparation and flavor management.

Voice and Audience

Leslie's writing style is direct and instructional, but it also reveals assumptions about her audience. She assumes the cook has access to a hydrant or pump, and that they understand terms like "cullender" and "forcemeat." Her instructions are detailed enough for a novice but assume some baseline kitchen knowledge. The book's promotional material claims all recipes are "new" and "have been fully tried and tested by the author," and the excerpts bear this out: each step is justified by its effect on the final dish. Leslie does not simply list ingredients; she explains why each step matters, as when she notes that the cold water bath removes the cabbage smell. This pedagogical tone, combined with the sheer number of cabbage variations, suggests a cookbook aimed at housekeepers who want not just recipes but principles they can apply to other ingredients.

Readers approaching Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book should note that its catalog subject "Cooking, American" only partially captures its character. The book is less a regional survey than a manual of method, where even humble cabbage receives the same rigorous treatment as elaborate company dishes. Leslie's insistence on multiple boilings and cold rinses reflects a broader philosophy: that good cooking is a matter of careful process, not just ingredients. For modern readers, the book offers a window into mid-19th-century American domestic practice, with its emphasis on economy, health, and the elimination of strong odors.

I keep thinking about that old cookbook—how Eliza Leslie treated cabbage like a problem to solve, soaking and boiling until it softened into something gentle. It reminded me of a quiet evening with Mrs. Beeton's Dictionary of Every-Day Cookery The "All About It" Books — Reading Notes, where patience felt like the real ingredient. Both whisper that care, not rush, makes nourishment stick with you.

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