Substitutes for Flesh Foods: Vegetarian Cook Book — Background and Themes

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Fulton, Edwin Giles, 1867- Project Gutenberg 2013 Not confirmed
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Words 39,752
Reading time 173 min
Text sections 6

For Substitutes for Flesh Foods: Vegetarian Cook Book — Background and Themes, the stored edition analysis reports 39,752 words, 2 hr 53 min estimated reading time, and 6 detected text sections.

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An editorial note on E. G. Fulton's 1904 vegetarian cookbook, examining its structure, recurring images of health and disease, and movement from persuasive preface to precise recipes.
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Editorial Edition Score 4.7/5

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[Transcriber's Note: Italic text is represented by _underscores_. Small capitals in the original have been converted to all capitals.]

SUBSTITUTES FOR FLESH FOODS

PACIFIC PRESS PUBLISHING COMPANY OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA

_Entered According to Act of Congress in the year 1904, by_ PACIFIC PRESS PUBLISHING COMPANY

_In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C._

WHY I WAS IMPRESSED TO WRITE A COOK BOOK.

It must appeal to the judgment of every thinking man and woman that the human family are more in need of sound, wholesome advice as to what they should eat and drink than ever before. The number of physicians and dentists increases each year at an alarming rate, but the aches and ills of the suffering people do not lessen. Thousands of people find themselves in a deplorable condition, with stomachs almost worn out, having depended largely upon predigested foods and a long list of so-called "dyspepsia cures."

The amount of patent medicines, "sure cures," consumed by the people in the United States is enormous, and is increasing every year. It must be apparent to all students of the past century that the people of the present are not enjoying the same degree of health as our ancestors, nor have we any assurance that things will improve unless some radical change is made.

Disease among cattle, poultry, and fish has increased so alarmingly in the last few years that we should no longer depend on the animal kingdom for food. We should look to the grains, nuts, vegetables, and fruits for a better dietary than can be prepared from the flesh of animals likely to be contaminated with tuberculosis, cancer, and other diseases.

In writing this book, the author has treated the subject from the commonly accepted definition of the term vegetarianism, which means to abstain from flesh food, but allows the use of eggs, milk, and its products. After years of experience in conducting vegetarian restaurants in several cities and making a study of the food question, he thinks he can bestow no greater gift upon the people than to place before them a book containing instruction in the preparation of wholesome dishes that will build up in place of tearing down the body.

In this work I do not claim to have reached perfection, nor to have exhausted the category of wholesome preparations and combinations within the domain of vegetarianism. In our efforts to teach how to live without the use of flesh foods, we find we have only begun to discover the inexhaustible resources of the great vegetable kingdom in the boundless wealth of varied hygienic foods.

BAKERY AND BREAKFAST DISHES .... 196-201

BEVERAGES ...................... 173-176

CAKE ........................... 235-238

CEREALS ........................ 180-184

EGGS ........................... 163-170

ENTREES ........................ 67-114

HYGIENE OF COOKING ............. 9-12

NUT BUTTER ..................... 241-245

PIES ........................... 225-232

PUDDINGS ....................... 205-221

SALADS ......................... 17-28

SALAD DRESSINGS ................ 31-36

SOUPS .......................... 40-64

SAUCES ......................... 149-159

TOASTS ......................... 188-192

VEGETABLES ..................... 115-146

Good cooking is not the result of accident, a species of good luck, as it were. There is reason in every process; a law governing every chemical change. A course of medical lectures does not make a physician, nor will a collection of choice recipes make a cook. There must be a knowledge of compounding, as well as of compiling; of baking, as well as of mixing; and above all, one must engage in the real doing. Theory alone will not suffice; but experience, which practice only can give, is of the utmost importance.

Mention will be made under this head of those forms of cooking only which enter into vegetarian cooking as usually understood.

The term "boiling," as applied to cookery, means cooking in a boiling liquid. Many kinds of food need the action of water or other liquid, combined with heat, to cook them in the best manner, and boiling is one of the most common forms of cookery. When water becomes too hot to bear the hand in it with comfort, it has reached one hundred and fifty degrees, or the scalding point. When there is a gentle tremor or undulation on the surface, one hundred and eighty degrees, or the simmering point, is reached. When there is quite a commotion on the surface of the water, and the bubbles breaking above it throw off steam or watery vapor, two hundred and twelve degrees, or the boiling point, is reached. After water reaches the boiling point it becomes no hotter, no matter how violently it may boil. The excess of heat escapes in the steam. This important fact is rarely understood by the average cook, and much fuel is often needlessly wasted because of the mistaken idea that rapidly boiling water cooks food more quickly.

E. G. Fulton's 1904 cookbook opens not with a recipe but with a polemic. The preface, titled "Why I Was Impressed to Write a Cook Book," immediately frames vegetarianism as a response to a public health crisis: physicians and dentists increase "at an alarming rate," patent medicines proliferate, and disease among cattle, poultry, and fish has grown "alarmingly." This rhetorical pattern—contrasting a sick present with a healthier past—recurs throughout the book, even in recipe headnotes. The structure itself mirrors this movement: the preface establishes a problem, the hygiene section offers principles, and the recipe chapters provide practical solutions. The book thus functions as both a manifesto and a manual, with each recipe implicitly arguing for a return to wholesome eating.

From Crisis to Kitchen: The Persuasive Preface

The preface is the book's most rhetorically charged section. Fulton appeals to "every thinking man and woman" by citing rising numbers of physicians and dentists, then pivots to animal disease—tuberculosis, cancer—as a reason to abandon flesh foods. This is not a neutral introduction; it is a call to action. The language of alarm ("deplorable condition," "alarming rate") contrasts sharply with the calm, instructional tone of the recipes. Notably, Fulton defines vegetarianism as allowing eggs and dairy, a practical concession that aligns with his restaurant experience. The preface thus establishes a dual audience: those already convinced and those needing persuasion. Its placement before any recipe signals that the book's purpose is as much ideological as culinary.

The Hygiene of Cooking: Principles Before Practice

Following the preface, a section titled "Hygiene of Cooking" (pages 9–12) bridges rhetoric and recipe. Though the excerpt is truncated, the table of contents lists it as the first substantive chapter, preceding soups, salads, and entrees. This ordering suggests that Fulton considered proper technique foundational to his dietary reform. The phrase "good cooking is not the result of accident" implies a systematic approach, echoed in recipe instructions that emphasize timing, temperature, and texture—"cook only till done, for if boiled too long, the corn hardens." By placing hygiene before recipes, Fulton asserts that knowledge of cooking principles is as important as the ingredients themselves. This structural choice reinforces his authority as a restaurant veteran who has "made a study of the food question."

Recurring Images: Disease, Purity, and the Vegetable Kingdom

Throughout the excerpts, a binary of contamination versus purity emerges. The preface warns of flesh "likely to be contaminated with tuberculosis, cancer, and other diseases," while vegetables are described as part of "the great vegetable kingdom" with "inexhaustible resources." This imagery extends to recipe details: cauliflower must be "soak[ed] in cold water with head down for thirty minutes" to cleanse it; string beans are "wash[ed] thoroughly." The repeated emphasis on cleanliness—removing silk, draining, skimming undeveloped peas—mirrors the larger argument for dietary purity. Even the phrase "substitutes for flesh foods" in the title frames vegetables as replacements, not merely alternatives, reinforcing the idea that animal products are something to be avoided.

Movement Between Scenes: From Boiling to Baking

The recipe section demonstrates a clear progression from simple to complex preparations. For cauliflower alone, the book offers seven variations: plain boiled, stewed, baked, with cream sauce, with tomato sauce, browned, and as part of a cabbage dish. This movement from basic techniques (boiling) to more elaborate ones (baking with bread crumbs and sauce) mirrors the book's overall arc from simple principles to sophisticated dishes. The recipes also shift between stovetop and oven, from quick cooking (green corn boiled ten to twenty minutes) to slower methods (cauliflower baked until "a nice brown"). This variety in technique and timing gives the cookbook a pedagogical quality, teaching the reader not just what to make but how to adapt methods to different ingredients.

Fulton's cookbook is best approached as a period document that blends advocacy with instruction. Readers interested in culinary history will note how the preface's alarmist tone gives way to precise, almost scientific recipe language. The book rewards attention to its structure: the movement from crisis to hygiene to recipe mirrors the author's argument that cooking is a form of health reform. For modern cooks, the recipes offer a glimpse into early twentieth-century vegetarian practice, with its reliance on eggs, dairy, and careful technique. The book stands as a specific artifact of its time, not a universal guide.

Fulton’s little book always felt like a sturdy kitchen friend, its recipes and warnings breathing the same plain air. It calls to mind an older companion, The Country Housewife and Lady's Director in the Management of a House, and the Delights and Profits of a Farm — Edition Insights, where frugality and care for the household speak in a quieter, older tongue. Both simply know their season. A gentle echo, no more.

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