A Handbook of Fish Cookery: How to buy, dress, cook, and eat fish — Background and Themes

Emphasized text displayed as _Italics_ and =Bold=.

Mrs. Beeton's Famous Cookery Books.

=Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management.= 7s. 6d.

=Mrs. Beeton's Family Cookery and Housekeeping Book.= 5s.

=Mrs. Beeton's Every Day Cookery and Housekeeping Book.= 3s. 6d.

=Mrs. Beeton's All About Cookery.= 2s. 6d.

=Mrs. Beeton's Cookery Book=. 1s.

=Mrs. Beeton's Englishwoman's Cookery Book.= 6d.

=Mrs. Beeton's Penny Cookery Book.= 1d.

_A HANDBOOK OF FISH COOKERY._

_BY THE SAME AUTHOR._

THE PROFESSION OF COOKERY FROM A FRENCH POINT OF VIEW.

_With some Economical Practices peculiar to the Nation._

"An excellent practical treatise, well expressed, full of sound information lucidly conveyed by a writer who really knows her subject well, and combines fine taste with a real regard for economy."--_The Times._

_HOW TO BUY, DRESS, COOK, AND EAT FISH_

_Author of "The Profession of Cookery from a French Point of View."_

LONDON WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C. NEW YORK AND MELBOURNE 1897

CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH 7

THE COOKING OF FISH 17

In spite of a considerable amount of trade grumbling, the best part of the market is still held by English fish, as a glance at any time over the names on the crates will show. The foreign importations, though large, are not nearly so extensive as might be supposed.

As a rule the north British ports furnish the largest supply; the southern ports suffer the most from foreign competition. Continental freightage also is light, and as the foreigner rarely keeps very closely to the laws of "fence months," he gets fish into the market when no home-caught of the same kind is to be had.

If all people, both rich and poor, could be persuaded to eat fish more freely, they would be benefited both in health and pocket.

If the _demand_ were greater the _supply_ would be more liberal, more varied, and also much cheaper.

At present, although there is much complaining about catches falling off, many grounds yielding but a poor harvest, yet tons of fish are annually sent away from the markets for manure.

The trade is both risky and variable, consequently prices have to be kept up that the dealer may realise some profit, and for this state of things _the modern housewife is largely accountable_.

It is not wholly a question of price, although there is still much to desire on this point.

Ignorance, especially with the working-man's wife, will generally be found to be the cause of the aversion which many housewives have to the cooking of fish; even in middle and upper class households much ignorance as to the kinds of fish and the best means of making use of them prevails.

The poorer classes still regard fish as "nothing to make a meal of," and, sad to say, a great many of the poor of our cities will not eat fish, however cheaply they may get it. They have many advantages of getting it which those who live in superior neighbourhoods have not.

Often before the Central Market closes, first-rate cod is to be had for twopence the pound--a seven-pound cod for a shilling. Plentiful and wholesome as cod is, it is seldom much thought of by poor people. Salted, sun-dried cod, is thought beneath notice, although large quantities are consumed on the continent, and some very dainty dishes made therefrom. Plaice, too, generally to be had at fourpence the pound, is but lightly esteemed.

Humble Londoners care most for smoked fish, "something that has a grip with it," they say. To meet this demand many adulterations are practised by the cockney curer. "Haddocks" are often but indifferent codling. The "Finnan Haddie" was caught in the Scheldt, and Stavanger herrings are passed off as Yarmouth bloaters.

Unwholesome common lobsters, winkles, and whelks, are preferred to good substantial fish, and, as before stated, ignorance of the proper methods of cooking is most frequently the reason of this.

Where late dinners, with people of small incomes, are coming more into favour, it is found an economy, as it is also considered the "correct thing," to have a course of fish. Indeed, as an economical article of diet, fish has few rivals.

Many people who really would enjoy eating it are debarred from doing so by its being invariably badly cooked, or presented always in the same monotonous dress.

Phosphorus being essential for brain food, and as analysis has proved fish to contain a greater amount than almost any other article of diet, it is the more valuable still on this account.