High-class cookery made easy — Themes and Context

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Hart, J., Mrs. Project Gutenberg 2022 Not confirmed
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Words 16,642
Reading time 73 min
Text sections 19

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Mrs. J. Hart's 1880 cookbook for young ladies and inexperienced cooks emphasizes cleanliness, stock-making, and practical recipes. The opening stresses scrupulously clean pans, while later sections detail sauces, puddings, and economical made-dishes, reflecting a hands-on teaching approach.
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HIGH-CLASS COOKERY MADE EASY.

EDINBURGH: LORIMER & GILLIES, PRINTERS, 31 ST. ANDREW SQUARE.

I have written this book for Young Ladies and inexperienced Cooks, as a simple guide for them in Cookery. I have had a practical cooking-class for some time in various towns, where I have proved my recipes by cooking them for the ladies.

I have been asked to form a book of these recipes, as most Cookery Books are not suitable for economical households; and the result is now submitted to the public.

I have learnt from experience what is wanted in a kitchen, and therefore the instructions given are such that any one can follow them without difficulty.

I intend, as soon as possible, to publish another little work, with additional recipes, as time has failed me to give, in the present publication, all the recipes that I think of importance.

ECONOMICAL MADE-DISHES, 20

SAUCES OF ENTRÉES, 27

STOCK FOR SAUCES OR ENTRÉES, 30

JOINTS IN GENERAL, 31

SAUCES FOR JOINTS, 40

CAKES, AND ICINGS FOR CAKES, 55

THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF PASTE, 61

HIGH-CLASS COOKERY MADE EASY.

At the outset we have to remind all who read these pages, that great pains must be taken to have all pans and dishes scrupulously clean. In cleaning copper pans, attend to the following directions:--If there are any lemon skins left from cooking, boil them in salt and water, dip a piece of flannel in the liquid, and rub your pan well. Then rinse with cold water, and dry with a linen cloth. Every pan must be rinsed or dusted out before being used, for the smallest speck of dirt will destroy a whole panful of sauce; and good sauces are the foundation of good cooking.

Cooks cannot be too careful in keeping their sauce-pans scrupulously clean. To clean ordinary pans, place them on the fire with some water and a little washing soda, and let the water get hot. Then wash out your pan, rub lightly with a few ashes and rinse with clean water.

Keep a pan for omelets only.

The first duty of the cook or housekeeper is to have a stock made ready for soups, gravies, and sauces. On the care given to this point greatly depend the comfort and success of the dinner. I will now try to explain how, with a little care and pains, this can always be done, and the same stock used for several soups. To make--

Procure a nap-bone, five lbs.; have the bone well broken into very small pieces, and wash it in salt and water. Cut off the meat, and brown it in the frying-pan, with an onion. Put the nap-bone and fried meat into a convenient-sized soup-pot with eight quarts of cold water, and when it comes to the boil, set it to the side of the fire, to throw up the scum and grease; remove these as they rise, and boil slowly, with a head of celery, for six hours; then strain, and have it clear, to make the different kinds of clear soup. I will afterwards give the names of these.

For thick soups, or gravies, or sauces, put back the same meat and bones of the first stock into the pot, and put on eight quarts more of water. Boil for six hours,--longer, if it is cold weather. Vegetables, such as carrots and turnips, may be put into the stock, but not in warm weather. Strain this stock, and it will do for thick soup or purées of vegetables.

Take the red part of a carrot, part of a turnip, and the white part of a head of celery, leek, and onion; cut these into thin shreds about an inch long, and boil in a pint of water. Pour off the water from the vegetables, and add them to the clear brown soup. Season with pepper and salt, and whatever sauce is preferred.

Cut carrot, turnip, and lettuce leaves, with a round vegetable-cutter, to the size of a threepenny piece, and boil tender in a separate sauce-pan, strain and add to clear brown soup. A glass of sherry added to the soup is an improvement, but this may be omitted.

Mrs. J. Hart opens High-class cookery made easy with a blunt directive: “great pains must be taken to have all pans and dishes scrupulously clean.” This insistence on hygiene, including a method for cleaning copper pans with lemon skins and salt, sets the tone for a book that treats kitchen fundamentals as non-negotiable. The prefatory note reveals Hart’s background running practical cooking classes, and her aim to provide a “simple guide” for “Young Ladies and inexperienced Cooks.” Unlike many contemporary cookery books, she claims her recipes have been “proved by cooking them for the ladies,” lending a tested, classroom-tested authority to the instructions that follow.

Cleanliness as the First Lesson

The book’s opening pages do not begin with a recipe but with a detailed cleaning regimen. Hart instructs readers to boil lemon skins in salt water for copper pans, rinse with cold water, and dry with a linen cloth. For ordinary pans, she recommends washing soda and hot water, then a light rub with ashes. She adds a pointed note: “Keep a pan for omelets only.” This early emphasis on scrupulous cleanliness—down to “the smallest speck of dirt”—frames cooking as a discipline where preparation matters as much as the final dish. The advice is practical and specific, reflecting Hart’s experience teaching novices who might overlook such basics.

Stock: The Foundation of Soups and Sauces

Hart declares that “the first duty of the cook or housekeeper is to have a stock made ready for soups, gravies, and sauces.” She provides a recipe for brown soup stock using a nap-bone (likely a knucklebone), broken into small pieces, washed in salt and water, and browned with onion. The method calls for eight quarts of cold water and slow simmering. This stock is then used for multiple soups, a thrifty approach suited to “economical households.” The section on sauces for joints—including horse-radish, caper, onion, apple, bread, parsley, and mint sauces—demonstrates how a single stock can be varied with simple additions like capers, vinegar, or fresh herbs.

Recipes That Blend Economy with Presentation

Hart’s recipes often combine modest ingredients with careful presentation. In “Strawberry Toasts,” bread strips are soaked in egg and milk, fried in butter, then sandwiched with strawberries and arranged “in the form of a lattice-work on a folded napkin.” The “Hollandaise Pudding” uses stale bread, sponge cake crumbs, macaroons, and water biscuits, bound with eggs and milk, then steamed and ornamented with green angelica. These dishes reflect a domestic economy that repurposes leftovers while still aiming for an attractive table. The instructions are precise: “Try if cooked in the centre with a knife” appears repeatedly, a teacher’s cue for doneness.

A Teacher’s Voice in the Kitchen

Throughout the excerpts, Hart’s voice is direct and instructional. She uses imperatives—“Procure,” “Cut off,” “Place,” “Stir”—and addresses the reader as “you” only implicitly. The recipes are concise, often listing ingredients in the method rather than as a separate list. Her concern for the inexperienced cook is evident in warnings: for roast leg of mutton, she insists it be served with brown sauce, “not water, for it takes the juice away.” The inclusion of Worcestershire sauce, Harvey sauce, and chili vinegar in entrée sauces suggests a pantry familiar with bottled condiments, while the “American paste” for rabbit pie hints at transatlantic influence. Hart’s book is a practical manual, not a literary work, but its voice is consistent and purposeful.

Reading High-class cookery made easy sequentially reveals a deliberate pedagogical structure: from cleaning and stock to soups, fish, made-dishes, entrées, sauces, joints, puddings, and cakes. The later sections on puddings and savoury dishes show Hart’s range, but the core lessons remain those of the opening pages—cleanliness, careful stock, and tested recipes. A first-time reader might best approach the book by starting with the cleaning instructions and stock recipe, then sampling recipes from different sections to see how the same principles recur. The book rewards attention to detail, not speed.

Reading Mrs. Hart's insistence on scrupulously clean pans, I thought of the quiet patience in old cookbooks, how they assume a young lady has time to learn. I sometimes flip through Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book — Key Ideas to Explore the same way, wondering who once owned these pages and what their first pudding looked like.

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