Good things to eat, as suggested by Rufus — Background and Themes

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Estes, Rufus, 1857-1939 Project Gutenberg 2006 Not confirmed
Cooking, American Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Words 55,817
Reading time 243 min
Text sections 7

This digital edition of Good things to eat, as suggested by Rufus — Background and Themes is described by source-level measurements including 55,817 words, 4 hr 3 min estimated reading time, and 7 detected text sections.

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Rufus Estes, a former Pullman private-car chef, shares practical recipes for meats, game, fowl, fish, puddings, and pastries, drawn from his experience serving in diverse settings. The foreword frames the collection as a humble, tested labor of years, with a focus on making others happy through good eating.
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Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Janet Blenkinship and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by the Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State University Libraries.)

A COLLECTION OF PRACTICAL RECIPES FOR

PREPARING MEATS, GAME, FOWL, FISH,

PUDDINGS, PASTRIES, ETC.

FORMERLY OF THE PULLMAN COMPANY PRIVATE CAR SERVICE, AND PRESENT CHEF OF THE SUBSIDIARY COMPANIES OF THE UNITED STATES STEEL CORPORATIONS IN CHICAGO

CHICAGO PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 1911

Copyrighted 1911 BY RUFUS ESTES, CHICAGO

That the average parent is blind to the faults of its offspring is a fact so obvious that in attempting to prove or controvert it time and logic are both wasted. Ill temper in a child is, alas! too often mistaken for an indication of genius; and impudence is sometimes regarded as a sign of precocity. The author, however, has honestly striven to avoid this common prejudice. This book, the child of his brain, and experience, extending over a long period of time and varying environment, he frankly admits is not without its faults--is far from perfect; but he is satisfied that, notwithstanding its apparent shortcomings, it will serve in a humble way some useful purpose.

The recipes given in the following pages represent the labor of years. Their worth has been demonstrated, not experimentally, but by actual tests, day by day and month by month, under dissimilar, and, in many instances, not too favorable conditions.

One of the pleasures in life to the normal man is good eating, and if it be true that real happiness consists in making others happy, the author can at least feel a sense of gratification in the thought that his attempts to satisfy the cravings of the inner man have not been wholly unappreciated by the many that he has had the pleasure of serving--some of whom are now his stanchest friends. In fact, it was in response to the insistence and encouragement of these friends that he embarked in the rather hazardous undertaking of offering this collection to a discriminating public.

To snatch from his daily toil a few moments, here and there, in order to arrange with some degree of symmetry, not the delicacies that would awaken the jaded appetite of the gourmet, but to prepare an ensemble that might, with equal grace, adorn the home table or banquet board, has proven a task of no mean proportions. Encouraged by his friends, however, he persevered and this volume is the results of his effort.

If, when gathered around the festal board, in camp or by fireside, on train or ship, "trying out" the recipes, his friends will pause, retrospectively, and with kindly feelings think from whence some of the good things emanated, the author will feel amply compensated for the care, the thought, the labor he has expended in the preparation of the book; and to those friends, individually and collectively, it is therefore dedicated.

I was born in Murray County, Tennessee, in 1857, a slave. I was given the name of my master, D. J. Estes, who owned my mother's family, consisting of seven boys and two girls, I being the youngest of the family.

After the war broke out all the male slaves in the neighborhood for miles around ran off and joined the "Yankees." This left us little folks to bear the burdens. At the age of five I had to carry water from the spring about a quarter of a mile from the house, drive the cows to and from the pastures, mind the calves, gather chips, etc.

In 1867 my mother moved to Nashville, Tennessee, my grandmother's home, where I attended one term of school. Two of my brothers were lost in the war, a fact that wrecked my mother's health somewhat and I thought I could be of better service to her and prolong her life by getting work. When summer came I got work milking cows for some neighbors, for which I got two dollars a month. I also carried hot dinners for the laborers in the fields, for which each one paid me twenty-five cents per month. All of this, of course, went to my mother. I worked at different places until I was sixteen years old, but long before that time I was taking care of my mother.

At the age of sixteen I was employed in Nashville by a restaurant-keeper named Hemphill. I worked there until I was twenty-one years of age. In 1881 I came to Chicago and got a position at 77 Clark Street, where I remained for two years at a salary of ten dollars a week.

Rufus Estes opens his 1911 collection with a foreword that is notably self-aware and modest. He compares the book to a child, admitting it is “far from perfect” yet confident it will “serve in a humble way some useful purpose.” This tone sets the work apart from many boastful cookbooks of the era. Estes emphasizes that the recipes represent “the labor of years,” tested “day by day and month by month” under varied conditions, not merely experimental. He credits friends for encouraging him to publish, suggesting the collection grew from real demand among those he served as a chef for the Pullman Company and later for U.S. Steel subsidiaries in Chicago.

A Chef’s Credentials and Context

The title page identifies Estes as “formerly of the Pullman Company Private Car Service, and present Chef of the Subsidiary Companies of the United States Steel Corporations in Chicago.” This dual affiliation signals a career spanning luxury rail travel and industrial-scale hospitality. The foreword’s mention of serving “on train or ship” and in “camp or by fireside” reinforces the breadth of his experience. Readers should note that Estes does not claim to be a gourmet chef for the elite; rather, he aims to provide an ensemble that “might, with equal grace, adorn the home table or banquet board.” This practical, democratic aspiration is a key lens for approaching the recipes.

Recipe Structure and Voice

The excerpts show a clear, instructional style. For example, the Giblet Sauce recipe directs: “Put the giblets from any bird in the saucepan with sufficient stock or water to cover them and boil for three hours.” Instructions are precise but assume some prior knowledge—terms like “braised” and “thickening left at the bottom of the pan” are used without explanation. Estes often includes optional enrichments: a small piece of butter “will make the sauce richer” in the Gooseberry Sauce. He also specifies equipment, such as a “lined saucepan” for Lemon Sauce for Fish, and techniques like “pass it through a silk sieve” for Half-Glaze Sauce. These details reveal a professional’s attention to texture and clarity.

Ingredient Patterns and Substitutions

Several recipes in the excerpts share common ingredients: butter, lemon juice, parsley, and sweet herbs recur frequently. Estes uses Liebig’s Extract of Beef in Sauce à la Metcalf, a commercial product popular in the early 1900s, indicating his openness to convenience items. He also suggests substitutions—Gooseberry Sauce “may be served with roast pork or goose instead of apple sauce” and “may also be served with boiled mackerel.” This flexibility hints at a cookbook designed for practical use rather than rigid orthodoxy. The inclusion of multiple butter-based sauces (Lemon Butter, Lobster Butter, Maître d’Hôtel Butter) shows a fondness for compound butters as quick flavor builders.

What the Foreword Reveals About the Book’s Purpose

Estes’s foreword is unusually personal for a cookbook. He writes that “one of the pleasures in life to the normal man is good eating” and that “real happiness consists in making others happy.” This philosophy frames the recipes as acts of service. He acknowledges the “rather hazardous undertaking” of publishing, suggesting he was not a natural author. The foreword also hints at the book’s origin: friends who had enjoyed his cooking “insisted and encouraged” him to compile the collection. Thus, the recipes are not abstract formulas but proven dishes from a working chef’s repertoire. Readers should treat each recipe as a snapshot of early 20th-century American cooking as practiced by an African American chef in positions of considerable responsibility.

As you read through the recipes, pay attention to the small cues—the occasional pinch of nutmeg, the instruction to “cream” butter, the use of “moist sugar” versus granulated. These details anchor the book in its time and place. Estes’s voice, though brief in each recipe, collectively builds a portrait of a meticulous, generous cook. The foreword’s humility should not obscure the skill evident in the range of sauces, from simple Lemon Butter to complex Half-Glaze. This is a working document, meant to be used, stained, and passed down.

I keep thinking about how Rufus Estes wrote that cooking is really about making others happy, and then I came across this old army field manual—Directions for Cooking by Troops, in Camp and Hospital Prepared for the Army of Virginia, and published by order of the Surgeon General, with essays on "taking food," and — Reading Notes. Both feel like quiet labors of love, tested by fire and hunger, not fame.

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