Everyday Foods in War Time — Context and Discussion
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I. THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME
II. CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT
III. THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE
IV. THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES
V. ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES?
VI. FAT AND VITAMINES
VII. "SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE"
VIII. ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME
APPENDIX--SOME WAR TIME RECIPES
EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME
THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME
(Reprinted from _The Farmer's Wife_, by permission of the Webb Publishing Company.)
There is a quaint old fairy tale of a friendly pitcher that came and took up its abode in the home of an aged couple, supplying them from its magic depths with food and drink and many other comforts. Of this tale one is reminded in considering the place of the milk pitcher in the home. How many housewives recognize the bit of crockery sitting quietly on the shelf as one of their very best friends? How many know that it will cover many of their mistakes in the choice of food for their families? That it contains mysterious substances upon which growth depends? That it stands ready to save them both work and worry in regard to food? That it is really the only indispensable article on the bill of fare?
Diet is like a house, a definite thing, though built of different kinds of material. For a house we need wall material, floor material, window, ceiling, chimney stuffs and so forth. We may, if we like, make floors, walls, and ceilings all of the same kind of stuff, wood for example, but we should need glass for windows and bricks or tile for chimneys. Or, again, we may choose brick for walls, floors, and chimneys but it would not do any better than wood for windows, would be rather unsatisfactory for ceilings, and impossible for doors. In other words, we could not build a modern house from one kind of material only and we really need at least four to carry out even a simple plan.
In a similar fashion, diet is constructed from fuel material, body-building material and body-regulating material. No diet is perfect in which these are not all represented. Now, foods are like sections of houses. Some correspond to single parts, as a floor or a window or perhaps a chimney; others to a house complete except for windows and roof; still others to a house lacking only a door or two. It takes some thought to put them together so that we shall have all kinds of parts without a great many extra ones of certain kinds and not enough of others.
Milk is unique in that it comes nearest of all foods to being a complete diet in itself. It is like the house with only a door missing. We could be quite comfortable in such a house for a long time though we could make a more complete diet by adding some graham bread or an apple or some spinach.
We all associate milk with cows and cows with farms, but how closely is milk associated with the farm table? Is it prized as the most valuable food which the farm produces? Every drop should be used as food; and this applies to skim milk, sour milk, and buttermilk as well as sweet milk. Do we all use milk to the best advantage in the diet? Here are a few points which it is well to bear in mind:
Mary Swartz Rose opens Everyday Foods in War Time with a telling epigraph from the Journal of Home Economics that parodies Lewis Carroll: “The time has come, the Aggies said, / To talk of many things, / Of what to eat, of calories, / Of cabbages and kings, / Of vitamines and sausages, / And whether costs have wings.” This blend of scientific precision and domestic practicality defines the book’s approach. Rose, an assistant professor of nutrition at Teachers College, Columbia University, addresses the “patriotic housewife” whose “little domestic boat” sails in “uncharted waters” after the Food Administration’s call to “save wheat, meat, sugars and fats.” The preface frames the work as a response to a request for “a war message about food,” aiming to replace anxiety with reassurance by explaining how common foods function in the diet.
The Milk Pitcher as a Household Ally
Rose begins with a fairy-tale analogy: a “friendly pitcher” that supplies an aged couple with food and drink. She asks how many housewives recognize their own milk pitcher as “one of their very best friends,” capable of covering “many of their mistakes in the choice of food.” The chapter emphasizes milk’s indispensable role, containing “mysterious substances upon which growth depends.” Rose does not name vitamins directly here, but the phrasing points to then-recent discoveries in nutrition. She positions milk as the only truly indispensable article on the shelf, a claim grounded in its protein, fat, and mineral content. The tone is persuasive yet factual, urging readers to see a common kitchen item as a strategic resource in wartime meal planning.
Flavor as a Tool, Not a Luxury
In the chapter on flavor, Rose warns against the “insidious beginning of luxury.” She quotes a clever housewife: “Once give your family luxuries and you are lost as far as satisfying them economically is concerned,” and a physiologist: “Even a rat will not taste bread when bacon is nigh.” The text advises using herbs, spices, and varied cooking methods—such as oatmeal in three forms: plain, with apples in a pudding, or with onions and tomatoes in soup—to make economical cereals and legumes acceptable. Rose cautions that tea and coffee, while providing flavor, should not be given to children and warns against a diet of little more than bread and coffee. The section balances the need for palatability with the risk of pampering the palate, urging cooks to “save her best flavors for the foods which would be least acceptable without them.”
Economy and Patriotism in the Kitchen
The final chapter confronts the tension between thrift and national duty. Rose acknowledges the fantasy of a “fairy table that comes at the pressing of a button,” then pivots to reality: “Even if we have plenty of money we cannot escape from the thought of food today.” She stresses that food conservation is not optional but imperative, as “at best there will not be enough to go around.” The text aligns household economy with the Food Administration’s program, implying that personal sacrifice is a form of citizenship. Rose does not prescribe specific ration amounts but frames the challenge as one of planning and mindset. The appendix of “War Time Recipes” offers practical closure, though the excerpts do not include those recipes. The book’s structure—from milk to cereals, meat, potatoes, fruits, fats, sugar, and finally economy—mirrors a systematic rethinking of the pantry under constraint.
Rose’s book is best read as a period document that reveals how nutritional science was translated for the home front. Her recurring metaphors—the fairy pitcher, the fairy table, the rat and the bacon—show a writer who leavens instruction with wit. Readers interested in the history of food conservation, early twentieth-century home economics, or the intersection of gender and wartime policy will find this a concise primary source. The text assumes a literate, middle-class audience with some control over menu planning, and it reflects the progressive-era faith that expert knowledge could solve domestic and national problems alike.
Sitting with Mary Swartz Rose’s 1917 guide, I found myself missing the quiet, orderly lessons of an older kitchen manual. Her careful charts on wheat-saving felt familiar, like a half-remembered conversation about why a simmering pot behaves as it does. That patience for principles, for the "why" behind a rationed loaf, reminded me of First lessons in the principles of cooking — Reading Companion. Both speak in the same calm, practical voice.
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