Chinese recipes — Story, Setting & Ideas
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Recipes From “THE ONLY PLACE IN PEKING” The Nellie Wong Tea Shop Peking China
Additional copies of this book for your friends may be had from my little store Twelve Hundred Twenty Six Amsterdam Avenue, or from my printer
The American Rehabilitation Committee, Inc., Twenty Eight East Twenty First Street, New York City, New York.
Copyright, Nineteen Hundred Twenty Seven, by Nellie C. Wong
Soy bean sauce and ginger are universally used in China for seasoning. Soy bean sauce in many instances takes the place of salt.
Mushrooms, water chestnuts and bamboo shoots are the distinctive vegetables used in many of the Chinese dishes.
All of these supplies may be obtained in New York City at the Chinese Grocery, Quong Yuen Shing and Company, Thirty-Two Mott Street, Chinatown; The Cathay Tea Garden, One hundred Sixty-Four East Eighty-Sixth Street; Yoeng’s Restaurant, Broadway and Forty-Eighth Street or the College Inn, Broadway near One hundred Twenty-Fourth Street.
Peanut oil, or lard are used in China for frying and cooking. Where the recipes call for “vegetable oil or lard” any shortening or drippings may be used, including Crisco, Best Foods Shortening Mazola and Wesson Oil.
The ingredients noted in each recipe are enough to serve six portions.
SHRIMPS AND MUSHROOMS 6
SWEET AND SOUR FISH 9
BEAN SPROUTS AND PORK 14
CORN AND WHITE MEAT OF CHICKEN 19
SWEET POTATO BALLS 25
1 teaspoon of tea leaves 6 cups of boiling water
Scald out a crockery teapot. While it is warm put into it a teaspoonful of tea leaves. Pour on fresh boiling water. Steep from three to five minutes before serving.
1 quart chicken broth ½ cup finely chopped water chestnuts 2 eggs pepper and salt
Pour half cupful of finely chopped water chestnuts into a quart of boiling chicken broth. Cook for about five minutes. Beat up two eggs, yolks and whites together. Pour egg into chicken broth and stir well and slowly until it forms small flowers. Add pepper and salt to taste.
The proper way to cook rice is to wash the rice clean, add water, measuring one inch above the rice surface.
Let it come to a boil, then turn the gas low, let the rice simmer until it is cooked dry. Do not open the lid during cooking. When the rice is correctly cooked, every grain stands by itself.
Chop up some left-over meat, or ham or bacon, and an onion. Brown all together in a frying pan, with a little oil or fat. Add rice, fry all together again until rice and meat become brown.
This Recipe Awarded First Prize The Women’s Exposition of Industrial Arts, New York City Nineteen Hundred Twenty-Seven
1 lb. fresh shelled shrimps 1 lb. white bread whites of 3 eggs ½ onion ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper small piece fresh ginger
Place shelled shrimps, onion and ginger in a chopper and chop very fine; remove from chopper into a large bowl, add the whites of three eggs, salt and pepper, then beat the ingredients until stiff. Now spread the mixture upon thinly sliced bread. Cut into strips about an inch wide and four inches long. Sprinkle browned bread crumbs upon the shrimp strips. Place in boiling deep vegetable oil or lard; as soon as the bread turns golden brown, remove straws from fat and place upon a piece of paper to drain off the oil.
Shrimp straws should always be served hot and fresh.
1 lb. small fresh shrimps, shelled ½ lb. thinly sliced toast ½ lb. water chestnuts 1 small piece of ginger pepper, salt and soy bean sauce
Toast sliced bread, butter and cut into small cubes. Fry shrimps in a red hot frying pan, use very little vegetable oil or lard to grease the pan; as soon as shrimps turn red remove from the pan. Fry water chestnuts, which have been boiled a little, and cut into cubes. Add shrimps and a little finely chopped ginger, season to taste with pepper, salt and soy bean sauce. Now add the cubes of toast to the cooked shrimps and stir well before serving.
SHRIMPS AND MUSHROOMS
1 lb. fresh shelled shrimps 1 lb. fresh mushrooms ¼ lb. bamboo shoots, sliced thin Cornstarch small piece ginger, pepper, salt and soy bean sauce
Fry shrimps in a red hot frying pan, which has been greased with a little vegetable oil or lard, until shrimps turn red. Place in a hot pan, which has been greased with vegetable oil or bacon fat, finely chopped ginger, mushrooms and bamboo shoots; fry until tender. Remove the cooked mushrooms and use drippings with cornstarch to make a medium gravy, season with pepper, salt, and soy bean sauce. Add shrimps, cooked mushrooms and bamboo shoots.
1 lb. shelled fresh shrimps 3 eggs ½ cup flour ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper 2 teaspoons soy bean sauce
Nellie C. Wong's Chinese Recipes opens with a practical note: soy bean sauce and ginger are universal seasonings in China, and mushrooms, water chestnuts, and bamboo shoots are the distinctive vegetables. The book was published in 1927 by the American Rehabilitation Committee and sold from Wong's New York City store at 1226 Amsterdam Avenue. The recipes are calibrated for six portions, and the author specifies that peanut oil or lard is traditional, but Crisco, Mazola, or Wesson Oil may be substituted. A list of Chinese grocery suppliers in Manhattan—including Quong Yuen Shing and Company on Mott Street—makes the dishes accessible to home cooks far from Peking.
Tea and Soup: Precision in Simplicity
The first recipe, for tea, is deceptively simple: one teaspoon of leaves, six cups of boiling water, a scalded crockery pot, and a steep of three to five minutes. The instruction to scald the pot while warm shows attention to technique. Egg-Flowers Soup follows, where finely chopped water chestnuts are added to boiling chicken broth, then beaten eggs are stirred in slowly until they form small flowers. The verb forms is precise—the egg should not scramble but bloom. Both recipes emphasize timing and gentle heat, setting a tone of careful control.
Rice as a Foundation
The rice recipe is a masterclass in restraint: wash the rice, add water one inch above the surface, bring to a boil, then simmer without opening the lid until dry. The goal is that every grain stands by itself. A separate recipe for Left Over Rice shows thrift—chopped leftover ingredients are fried with mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and water chestnuts, then layered with noodles, chicken, ham, and a sliced egg topping. The dish is assembled in layers, not tossed, suggesting a composed presentation even for leftovers.
Sweet and Savory: The Precious Pudding
Precious Pudding is the most elaborate recipe, combining rice and barley with eight fruits and nuts: candied lotus seeds, almonds, raisins, fresh peanuts, candied cherries, and citron. The cook must arrange these in a pretty design at the bottom of a bowl before steaming. The result is inverted so the design appears on top, served with a lemon-sugar sauce. The recipe demands patience—steaming for at least an hour—and a visual aesthetic that matches the name. Sweet Potato Balls, by contrast, are simpler: a coconut-almond filling wrapped in sweet potato and rice flour paste, fried until golden.
Adaptation and Authenticity
Wong's book bridges two culinary worlds. She specifies Chinese ingredients like soy bean sauce and bamboo shoots but also lists American substitutes: Crisco for lard, any shortening for vegetable oil. The suppliers are all in New York City, suggesting her audience was urban and likely non-Chinese. Yet the recipes retain Chinese techniques—the slow simmer for rice, the flower-forming egg in soup, the layered assembly of chow mein. The book does not explain these methods; it assumes the cook will follow them exactly. The result is a document of cultural translation, where a Peking tea shop owner teaches American readers to make her dishes with local tools.
Reading these recipes sequentially reveals a cookbook that is both practical and personal. Wong's voice is direct, her instructions spare but precise. The book does not claim to represent all of Chinese cuisine—it offers dishes from one tea shop in Peking, adapted for one American city. For a first reading, pay attention to the verbs: scald, simmer, arrange, drain. They carry the technique. The ingredients lists are short; the method is everything.
Flipping through Nellie Wong’s careful adaptations feels like watching someone translate a home into a stranger’s kitchen. It reminded me of my grandmother’s stained index cards, her penciled swaps for unavailable ingredients. Then I thought of Selections from Aunt Sammy's Radio Recipes and USDA Favorites — Story, Setting & Ideas, that cheerful, pragmatic voice offering the same patient bridge—each recipe a quiet handhold across distance and time.
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