The Art of German Cooking and Baking Revised and Enlarged Edition — Reading Companion
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4 lbs. ox bones 6 qts. water ⅛ of an onion ½ of a carrot 1 small piece celery 1 small piece kohlrabi 1 small piece parsley root 1 tomato, salt
Preparation: The soup bone is put over the fire in 6 qts. of cold water after it has been washed in cold water. Soup greens and salt are added and the whole is boiled slowly 4 hours until it is boiled down to 2 or 3 quarts. Before using pour the bouillon through a fine sieve. If you like the bouillon very strong and of a good color add ½ teaspoonful of beef extract.
The soup bone and the soup greens are fried light brown with a piece of butter or lard. Water is then added and salt. Boil 4 hours as in the preceding recipe and strain before using.
No. 3—OXTAIL BOUILLON.
3 lbs. ox-tall 1 tbsp. butter 5 qts. cold water Salt Soup greens
Preparation: Cut the ox-tail into small pieces and together with the soup greens, fry them in butter light brown. Add 5 qts. of water and salt. Let it boil 4 or 5 hours slowly down to 2 qts. This bouillon will be very strong and may be served in cups, and bread or cheese sticks may be served with it.
No. 4—BOUILLON OF MEAT EXTRACT.
Soup greens 1 tbsp. butter or lard 1 tsp. extract of meat Salt, 1 qt. water
Preparation: Stew the soup greens in butter or lard a little while, then add water and salt and boil slowly for 20 minutes. Add the meat extract and strain. The yolk of one egg may be stirred into it.
No. 5—BOUILLON OF BEEF.
3 lbs. of beef 1 lb. of soup bone Salt 4 qts. water Soup greens
Preparation: Soup bone, soup greens, and salt and water are put over the fire to boil one hour, then the beef is added and the whole is boiled slowly for another 2 or 2½ hours. Strain after boiling. This soup is very strong. Boiled in this way the meat is tender and nourishing.
Made of Roast Bones or Meat Remnants.
2 lbs. of roast bones Soup greens Salt 2 qts. water
Preparation: Chop the bones and put over the fire with soup greens, salt and water; boil 2 hours, then strain. If the bouillon is not strong enough, add a little meat extract.
No. 7—DUMPLINGS FOR BOUILLON.
Marrow Dumpling Soup.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
3 tbsps. of melted beef marrow 2 eggs ¾ pt. grated rolls ½ tsp. chopped parsley 1 pinch nutmeg 1 tbsp. cold water ½ tsp. salt
Preparation: Boil or cook the marrow until it is melted, strain it through a fine sieve. Put 3 tablespoonfuls into a dish and let it cool off. Then beat it to foam and add the yolks of the eggs, salt, parsley, nutmeg, the grated rolls and water. Finally beat the whites of 2 eggs to stiff froth and stir into the mass.
Form small dumplings, let bouillon come to a boil, put the dumplings in and boil slowly ¼ hour.
It is best to try one dumpling first; in case it does not hold together, add some more grated roll.
The soup must be served at once. A little chopped parsley put into it is a pleasing and palatable addition.
No. 8—BUTTER-DUMPLING SOUP.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
2 tbsps. of butter, 2 eggs ¾ pt. grated rolls ¼ tsp. of salt ½ tsp. parsley 1 pinch nutmeg 1 tbsp. of cold water
Preparation of butter-dumplings is the same as the marrow dumplings in No. 7.
The butter is beaten to a cream at once and less salt is added, because the butter is already salted.
No. 9—LIVER-DUMPLING SOUP.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
¼ lb. of chopped calf’s liver 1 tsp. butter A little grated onion 1 tsp. finely chopped parsley 5 tbsps. grated rolls 2 eggs 1 tsp. salt, (scant) 1 pinch nutmeg
Preparation: The butter is stirred and liver, yolk of eggs, salt, parsley, onion, nutmeg and roll crumbs added. The whites of eggs are beaten to a froth and stirred into the mass, then small dumplings are formed. When the bouillon comes to a boil, put the dumplings in and boil ¼ hour.
The soup should be served at once.
No. 10—MEAT-DUMPLING SOUP.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
¼ lb. of finely chopped veal or poultry 2 eggs ¼ pt. grated rolls 1 tsp. of butter ½ tsp. finely chopped parsley 1 tsp. salt 1 pinch nutmeg
Preparation: The butter is stirred, then meat, yolk of eggs, parsley, salt, nutmeg added and well mixed. The whites of eggs beaten to a froth and added to the mass. Small dumplings are formed and when bouillon boils, let the dumplings boil in it 10 minutes. A little parsley may be put into the soup, which must be served at once.
No. 11—SPONGE-DUMPLING SOUP.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
3 eggs ¼ tsp. of salt ½ pt. milk or bouillon
Lina Meier’s The Art of German Cooking and Baking (1922) is organized into 26 chapters spanning 1,250 recipes, from soups to confectionery. The preface emphasizes clarity and practicality, targeting brides and beginners. The book’s structure—moving from basic ingredients to elaborate composed dishes—creates a pedagogical arc. Recurring images of careful preparation, such as boiling vegetables separately to preserve texture, and the frequent use of precise weights and measures (e.g., “3 coffee cups, level” for flour) anchor the work in a domestic science tradition. The movement between simple and complex recipes, like the progression from basic potato salad to truffle salad, illustrates a methodical building of skills.
Chapter Architecture and Pedagogical Flow
The 26-chapter structure moves from foundational elements (soups, meats) to composed dishes (salads, desserts) and finally to specialized sections like “Cookery for Invalids.” This progression mirrors a course of instruction, with each chapter building on previous techniques. For instance, Chapter 13 (Salads) includes recipes that reuse cooked meats and vegetables from earlier chapters, such as “Mixed Salad with Meat” (No. 29), which calls for beef, veal, or poultry prepared elsewhere. The chapter on “Dressings or Gravies” (Chapter 10) precedes salads, ensuring the reader has the necessary sauces. This deliberate sequencing suggests Meier intended the book as a comprehensive curriculum, not merely a collection of recipes.
Precision as a Recurring Motif
Throughout the excerpts, Meier insists on exact measurements and techniques. The “Reliable Weights and Measures” table at the start standardizes terms like “coffee cup” and “tbsp., well-rounded.” In salad recipes, instructions to “cook each separately until tender” and “mix carefully” emphasize control over texture. The mayonnaise dressing (No. 28) requires stirring “constantly” in a double boiler until thick, then cooling before adding oil. This attention to detail recurs in the truffle salad (No. 31), where preserved truffles are “scraped and sliced fine” and fresh ones are “brushed well in much water.” Such precision reflects a scientific approach to cooking, aiming for reproducible results.
Movement from Simple to Elaborate Compositions
The salad chapter exemplifies a clear progression from basic to ornate. Early recipes like “Fine Mixed Vegetable Salad” (No. 28) combine boiled vegetables with a simple oil-and-vinegar dressing. Later entries introduce mayonnaise, truffles, and sweetbreads. “Champignon Salad” (No. 30) pairs mushrooms with boiled sweetbreads and sour cream, while “Truffle Salad” (No. 31) uses bouillon-cooked truffles and white wine. The most complex, “Mixed Salad with Meat” (No. 29), integrates multiple vegetables, pickles, apples, and meat, with an optional mayonnaise. This escalation in ingredients and technique mirrors the book’s overall trajectory from fundamentals to festive dishes.
Recurring Images of Careful Assembly
Meier frequently describes arranging salads on lettuce leaves and garnishing with olives or parsley. In No. 28, the salad is “piled up in the center” of a dish lined with lettuce; No. 30 is “arranged on the head lettuce leaves, strewn with parsley and garnished with olives.” This visual presentation—layering, centering, garnishing—appears across multiple recipes, suggesting an aesthetic ideal of neatness and symmetry. The instruction to “mix carefully” to avoid breaking pieces (No. 27) reinforces a hands-on, deliberate approach. These recurring images of assembly and decoration give the book a consistent visual language, even as the ingredients become more elaborate.
Readers approaching this edition will benefit from noting the book’s internal progression: earlier chapters provide the building blocks for later, more complex dishes. The precise measurements and methodical instructions reward careful reading, especially for those new to German cooking. Meier’s emphasis on separate cooking and gentle mixing offers a window into early 20th-century domestic science, where control over texture and temperature was paramount. This is a cookbook designed to be studied as much as used, with each recipe contributing to a broader culinary education.
Leafing through Meier’s precise salad layers, I felt that patient, orderly quality again—the same quiet diligence I found later in The Healthy Life Cook Book, 2d ed. — Edition Insights. Her measured vinegar, his plain grains; both seemed to trust routine over flourish. Odd how such practical pages hold a kind of tenderness.
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