Modern cookery for private families — Themes and Context
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Ingredients which may all be 1 used for making Soup of various kinds
A few directions to the Cook 2
The time required for boiling 4 down Soup or Stock
To fry Bread to serve with 5 Soup
Sippets _à la Reine_ 5
To make _Nouilles_ (an elegant 5 substitute for Vermicelli)
Vegetable Vermicelli 5 (Vegetables cut very fine for Soups)
Extract of Beef, or very 6 strong Beef Gravy-Soup (Baron Liebig’s receipt)
_Bouillon_ (the common Soup of 7 France), cheap and very wholesome
Clear pale Gravy Soup, or 10 _Consommé_
Another receipt for Gravy Soup 10
Cheap clear Gravy Soup 11
Vermicelli Soup (_Potage au 12 Vermicelle_)
Semoulina Soup (_Soupe à la 12 Semoule_)
_Potage aux Nouilles, or 14 Taillerine_ Soup
Stock for White-Soup 15
Mutton Stock for Soups 16
Mademoiselle Jenny Lind’s Soup 16
The Lord Mayor’s Soup 17
The Lord Mayor’s Soup 18 (Author’s receipt)
Jerusalem Artichoke, or 19 Palestine Soup
Common Carrot Soup 20
A finer Carrot Soup 20
Common Turnip Soup 21
A quickly made Turnip Soup 21
Another Parsnep Soup 22
Westerfield White Soup 22
A richer White Soup 23
Old-fashioned Mock-Turtle 26
Good Calf’s-Head Soup (_not 27 expensive_)
_Soupe des Galles_ 28
_Potage à la Reine_ (a 29 delicate White Soup)
White Oyster Soup (or Oyster 30 Soup _à la Reine_)
Rabbit Soup _à la Reine_ 31
Superlative Hare Soup 32
A less expensive Hare Soup 32
Economical Turkey Soup 33
Another Pheasant Soup 34
To boil Rice for Mullagatawny, 36 or for Curries
Good Vegetable Mullagatawny 37
Spring Soup, and Soup _à la 38 Julienne_
An excellent Green Peas Soup 39
Green Peas Soup without meat 39
A cheap Green Peas Soup 40
Peas Soup without meat 42
A cheap and good Stew Soup 43
Veal or Mutton Broth 44
Milk Soup with Vermicelli (or 44 with Rice, Semoulina, Sago, &c.)
Carrot Soup Maigre 45
Buchanan Carrot Soup 46 (excellent)
To sweeten tainted Fish 51
The mode of cooking best 51 adapted to different kinds of Fish
The best mode of boiling Fish 53
Brine for boiling Fish 54
To render boiled Fish firm 54
To know when Fish is 55 sufficiently boiled, or otherwise cooked
Fat for frying Fish 55
To keep Fish hot for table 56
To boil a Turbot (_and when in 56 season_)
Turbot _à la Crême_ 57
Turbot _au Béchamel_ 57
Mould of cold Turbot with Shrimp Chatney (refer to Chapter VI.)
To boil a John Dory (_and when 58 in season_)
Small John Dories baked. Good 58 (Author’s receipt)
To boil Salmon (_and when in 59 season_)
Salmon _à la Genevese_ 50
Salmon _à la St. Marcel_ 60
Baked Salmon over mashed 69 Potatoes
Salmon Pudding, to be served 60 hot or cold (_a Scotch receipt. Good_)
To boil Cod Fish (_and when in 61 season_)
Slices of Cod Fish Fried 61
Stewed Cod Fish in brown sauce 62
Salt Fish _à la Maître 63 d’Hôtel_
To boil Cods’ Sounds 63
To fry Cods’ Sounds in batter 63
To fry Soles (_and when in 64 season_)
Baked Soles (_a simple but 66 excellent receipt_)
Soles stewed in cream 67
To fry Whitings (_and when in 67 season_)
Fillets of Whitings 68
To boil Whitings (_French 68 receipt_)
Baked Whitings _à la 68 Française_
To boil Mackerel (_and when in 69 season_)
Baked Mackerel or Whitings 70 (_Cinderella’s receipt. Good_)
Fried Mackerel (_Common French 70 receipt_)
Fillets of Mackerel (_fried or 71 broiled_)
Boiled fillets of Mackerel 71
Mackerel broiled whole (_an 71 excellent receipt_)
Mackerel stewed with Wine 72 (_very good_)
Fillets of Mackerel stewed in 72 Wine (_excellent_)
To boil Haddocks (_and when in 73 season_)
To dress Finnan Haddocks 74
To boil Gurnards (_with 74 directions for dressing them in other ways_)
Fresh Herrings. Farleigh 74 receipt (_and when in season_)
To dress the Sea Bream 75
To boil Plaice or Flounders 75 (_and when in season_)
To fry Plaice or Flounders 75
To roast, bake, or broil Red 76 Mullet (_and when in season_)
To boil Grey Mullet 76
The Gar Fish (_to bake_) 77
The Sand Launce, or Sand Eel 77 (_mode of dressing_)
To fry Smelts (_and when in 77 season_)
To dress White Bait. Greenwich 78 receipt (_and when in season_)
Water Souchy (_Greenwich 78 receipt_)
Shad, Touraine fashion (_also 79 à la mode de Touraine_)
Stewed Trout. Good common 80 receipt (_and when in season_)
To boil Pike (_and when in 80 season_)
To bake Pike (_common 81 receipt_)
To bake Pike (_superior 81 receipt_)
To stew Carp (_a common 82 country receipt_)
To fry Perch or Tench 83
To fry Eels (_and when in 83 season_)
Boiled Eels (_German receipt_) 83
To dress Eels (_Cornish 84 receipt_)
Red Herrings _à la Dauphin_ 84
Red Herrings (_common English 84 mode_)
Anchovies fried in batter 84
DISHES OF SHELL-FISH.
Oysters, to cleanse and feed 85 (_and when in season_)
To scallop Oysters 86
Scalloped Oysters _à la Reine_ 86
Oyster Sausages (_a most 87 excellent receipt_)
To boil Lobsters (_and when in 88 season_)
Cold dressed Lobster and Crab 88
Lobsters fricasseed, or _au 89 Béchamel_ (_Entrée_)
Hot Crab or Lobster 89
Lobster cutlets (_a superior 91 Entrée_)
_Boudinettes_ of Lobsters, 92 Prawns, or Shrimps. _Entrée_ (_Author’s receipt_)
To boil Shrimps or Prawns 93
To dish cold Prawns 93
To shell Shrimps and Prawns 93 quickly and easily
Introductory remarks 94
Jewish smoked Beef (_extremely 95 useful for giving flavour to Soups and Gravies_)
To heighten the colour and 96 flavour of Gravies
Eliza Acton opens her 1882 edition with a pointed critique: the daily waste of excellent provisions in England is a serious evil, especially when many struggle to obtain even bread. She frames good cookery not as luxury but as economy, turning wholesome food into palatable meals rather than throwing it away. This moral and practical urgency pervades the book, which addresses itself explicitly to middle-class households—the source, she argues, of the nation's industrious men. Acton draws on scientific authorities like Baron Liebig, yet her tone remains that of a practical manager, not a theorist.
Waste, Health, and the Middle-Class Table
Acton's preface establishes a direct link between domestic mismanagement and national suffering. She asserts that the amount of disease caused by improper food is a greater evil than waste itself. This is not abstract: she notes that the influence of diet on health has occupied eminent men of science, and she incorporates their findings—particularly Liebig's—to increase the book's utility. The target audience is clear: the middle classes, whose simply supplied tables must be well prepared because from them emanate the men who drive advancement in science, art, and literature. Acton thus positions cookery as a pillar of civilisation, not a trivial domestic chore.
Vegetables: Between Fashion and Nutrition
In the vegetable section, Acton explicitly pits health against fashion. She warns that serving vegetables crisp—meaning half-boiled—should be disregarded when health is considered more important than fashion. She provides precise instructions: dried peas, Jerusalem artichokes, and potatoes go into cold water; all others need fast-boiling, salted, skimmed water. She even gives a formula for clearing insects: a pound and a half of salt per gallon of water. The detail is systematic, but the underlying tension is constant—between what is fashionable and what is wholesome.
The Potato as a Case Study in Value and Waste
Acton devotes a remarkable passage to the potato, calling it incomparable in value when properly cooked. She notes that it sustains thousands who accomplish heavy daily labour on almost no other food. Yet she laments the wretched manner in which it is dressed in many English houses, rendering it valueless and accounting for the prodigality with which it is thrown away. She even cites Dr. Pereira and Dr. Baly on its anti-scorbutic properties. The potato becomes a microcosm of her larger argument: good cookery is the best economy, and ignorance leads to both waste and poor health.
Readers approaching this edition should expect a work that is part recipe collection, part domestic manifesto. Acton's voice is authoritative and morally earnest, but grounded in practical detail—from the correct proportion of soda for green vegetables to the proper draining of boiled potatoes. The book rewards attention to its prefatory arguments as much as to its recipes, revealing a coherent philosophy of thrift, health, and national improvement through better cooking.
There’s something touching about Eliza Acton’s careful insistence that a good stew needn’t shame a household, and it makes me think of the later, plainer voice in Twenty-Five Cent Dinners for Families of Six — Inside the Classic, where thrift feels less like arithmetic and more like quiet care. Both books seem to whisper that feeding people well was always about attention, not abundance.
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